Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok heres the deal, ive got an RB25 with a mapped RB20 ecu running the show, VCT is not operational and it has never really fazed me since with the decent tune on there its got loads more down low then the old rb20 anyway. I have since added a GCG supplied GT3071R with internal gate, it has the GCG cast .71 AR rear housing (a copy of the OP6 housing if you will)

On boost, the car is an animal! goes pretty damn hard, makes 265 rwkw on 16 psi and 283 rwkw on 20 psi, since its a stock internal motor i keep the boost to 16, and i find its more then enough power anyway, BTW its a drift car.

Heres my issue, i do find that down low suffers a little, its a little laggy and i dont believe its the turbo's fault but more or less a fault of not running VCT.

I was thinking of adding some Jun spec 254 cams with 8.9mm lift. to improve the low to mid power range which is what im after, as peak power is plenty atm.

Thoughts?

Sounds like a good idea. As your not running the VCT, you could either, buy two exhaust cams, or make an adjustable camwheel out of the VCT camwheel(by elongating the bolt holes that secure the outer to the inner) I would try modifying and playing with the cam timing first, maybe just a cam on the intake, dialled in on the dyno would be all thats necessary

Sounds like a good idea. As your not running the VCT, you could either, buy two exhaust cams, or make an adjustable camwheel out of the VCT camwheel(by elongating the bolt holes that secure the outer to the inner) I would try modifying and playing with the cam timing first, maybe just a cam on the intake, dialled in on the dyno would be all thats necessary

Rezzpect man :(

keep stock cams

get VCT working with an aftermarket cam controller if you have to

tune the crap out of the low load ign timing - 7x7 should do it on the IGN map - go as far as 50deg in some spots with 100ron and youll love it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...