Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of the main things will be selecting the right turbo. You can turn the boost up, but your turbo will need to be rated at about 600hp. (Your motor will be making near 600hp to get 300rwkw.) You can go to the website http://www.turbobygarrett.com/ and have a look at a few, and read the tutorial there on selecting turbos. The plain bush ones will be cheaper, the ball bearing ones will have less lag. Both will make good power.

Then you need to do some simple maths to see if the injectors are up to it...

A programable computer is needed. The Nissan computer can be played with and reprogramed. Or a stand alone afermarked computer can be used.

Appart from obvious things like exhaust and intercooler size, the car needs to be started and tuned by a expert. It can be tuned on the road with the right gear, a dyno is not needed. Unless you want a printout showing the 300kw.

I ROFL at needing a T04Z.......thats the funniest thing ive heard all week......

TD06 or HKS3037 or Garret GT3076 is all u need.

I rekn.

SR's using 3071R's pull 300rwkw...

Its all relative tho :D:)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...