Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went to look at an R34 on the weekend, and I was told that the washer bottle had to be removed to install the intercooler piping.

Is this a common problem? Or is it only with the Just Jap kits?

What have you guys done to fix it? I'm pretty sure it's not roadworthy to not have windscreen washer jets, and also it would be pretty inconvenient...

Or does everybody just use the turnflow intercooler kits that go through the stock piping locations..?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/
Share on other sites

Yeah, I've got a few on the shortlist :D

i havent installed on into a r34 yet, but a mate has a r34 gtt with a front mount and he retained his washer bottle, not sure if it was a just jap cooler though. Even if you couldnt keep it in its original postion, i cant see it being too hard to relocate it, or worse case situation just make up a custom washer bottom from some s/s and mount it up, it would look pretty too haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3597631
Share on other sites

Thanks for that PJ, I'll have to check it out when I go look at the car again.

Only problem I can see is, the car that I'm 90% sold on has the standard series 1 front bar, not the Nismo one.

If not, I could always do as Stephen suggested and get a custom one made up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3597643
Share on other sites

could be similar, I don't know as I have an aero front bar...

I had to rewire the pumps and extend the hoses once I twisted mine as the standard wires and hoses weren't long enough to reach the new position.

Hope it works out for ya,

PJ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3600022
Share on other sites

Went to look at an R34 on the weekend, and I was told that the washer bottle had to be removed to install the intercooler piping.

Is this a common problem? Or is it only with the Just Jap kits?

What have you guys done to fix it? I'm pretty sure it's not roadworthy to not have windscreen washer jets, and also it would be pretty inconvenient...

Or does everybody just use the turnflow intercooler kits that go through the stock piping locations..?

Thanks

or you could keep the stock intercooler (good for up to 200rwkw apparently) - and get a water spray kit (extra washer bottle) to take it further...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3600383
Share on other sites

I just left my washer bottle off. It's not like you need it when you wash your car every week. I also keep some Windex wet towels in the glovebox just in case. There is NO room in the engine bay to fit a similar capacity replacement reservoir - you would struggle to fit anything of half decent volume in there - especially since I have an oil breather kit, and a radiator breather kit.

Or if you are dead keen on it, you could mount any sort of container in the boot and patch up some wiring, piping and a motor to it (the piping is already done for me in the form of my rear window washer). I am actually going to do this with a 20 litre plastic jerry can and put in a FMIC & radiator spray system for those nasty 43 degree Adelaide days (I sit around idling in my car for up to 15 minutes at a time while working.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3602021
Share on other sites

It all depends on which FMIC kit you get. The more common alternative which is proven to gain more power and also cheaper is the r33 fmic kit which can fit onto a r34 but mods needed such as quiet a bit of angle grinding and also removing the washer bottle to accomodate the piping. another alternative is a bolt on kit for the r34 which has longer piping but retains everything since its a replacement kit

hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3605724
Share on other sites

the japanese branded FMIC will not require any mods such as removing the washer bottle. Only justjaps will require mods like that such as trimming fans etc. if its the 'Cooling Pro' ones ur talking about

Edited by R33Turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3606826
Share on other sites

the japanese branded FMIC will not require any mods such as removing the washer bottle. Only justjaps will require mods like that such as trimming fans etc. if its the 'Cooling Pro' ones ur talking about

Bollocks. Any R34 intercooler kit that has an entry at either end, and does not have a hideously bad flowing 180 degree bend to follow oem pipe path, will need the washer bottle removed. The R34 washer bottle takes up the whole inner corner between the drivers inner wheel guard, and the power steering fluid cooler. Hybrid is one of the largest makers of intercooler kits, and they require removal of the washer bottle. The Trust and Greddy kits I have seen all have a similar piping path, which requires a hole to be sawn under the battery position, and that whole wall of the engine bay has washer bottle along it - so there is no way to get around it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3607022
Share on other sites

Bollocks. Any R34 intercooler kit that has an entry at either end, and does not have a hideously bad flowing 180 degree bend to follow oem pipe path, will need the washer bottle removed. The R34 washer bottle takes up the whole inner corner between the drivers inner wheel guard, and the power steering fluid cooler. Hybrid is one of the largest makers of intercooler kits, and they require removal of the washer bottle. The Trust and Greddy kits I have seen all have a similar piping path, which requires a hole to be sawn under the battery position, and that whole wall of the engine bay has washer bottle along it - so there is no way to get around it.

Agreed with that. Mate has a HKS intercooler, he has to remove the bottle as well because of the piping that goes back into the engine from the battery side of the car. So it doesn't matter what brand, basically it's the design i reckon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202490-r34-owners-help/#findComment-3607061
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...