Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm based in sydney and would like to know if any of you guys recommend a dealer to buy off, or an importer? I'm looking to get back into a 'line and want a good one. I'm lookin at getting either a fairly well modified r32 gtst (maybe worked rb20, or even an rb25 transplant) or even a GTR.

If anyone can help me that'd be awesome.

Thanks

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202931-looking-at-getting-an-r32/
Share on other sites

I can definitely recommend Aussie Car Compliance: http://www.aussiecarcompliance.com.au/cars4sale.htm

I bought my car off Joel and it has barely missed a beat. The cars they sell are top-notch, not too thrashed (visibly, but I bought my R33 GTS-T with 55,000k's and engine compression tested at 150psi across all cylinders (ie. very good!))

Plus all cars come with full 12 months rego, and 12 months warranty.

Dont trust the website, it hasnt been updated for a while. Just call Joel and tell him what you're after. If he hasnt got it, he'll certainly be able to bring it in and compliance it for you. I got mine straight from japan and somehow managed to be complianced even though it had an aftermarket turbo/computer and supporting mods. Supposedly they should be brought back to stock, but I have my suspicions :)

lol why yes, yes i do!

Next question is budget?

GTR - looking at a completely stock/v lightly modded example - i've seen that they go for about 18-20. But i was talking to Az from phoenix imports and he reckons he can get an 89-92 for 10,500, and a 92-94 model for 12,500 landed and complianced. What extra costs are involved with this cos that sounds real cheap.

GTR - looking at a completely stock/v lightly modded example - i've seen that they go for about 18-20. But i was talking to Az from phoenix imports and he reckons he can get an 89-92 for 10,500, and a 92-94 model for 12,500 landed and complianced. What extra costs are involved with this cos that sounds real cheap.

At those prices... A rebuild is involved ($3,000-10,000) very shortly after buying unless its got recent and verified receipts of a full rebuild... and maybe cutting some rust out of an 89 model

At those prices... A rebuild is involved ($3,000-10,000) very shortly after buying unless its got recent and verified receipts of a full rebuild... and maybe cutting some rust out of an 89 model

so i should be looking at about 20 yeah?

GTR - looking at a completely stock/v lightly modded example - i've seen that they go for about 18-20. But i was talking to Az from phoenix imports and he reckons he can get an 89-92 for 10,500, and a 92-94 model for 12,500 landed and complianced. What extra costs are involved with this cos that sounds real cheap.

Do NOT buy a cheap GTR.

Well, if you have 10k sitting around for a rebuild then do it :)

Here's a nice looking one

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tr-t202435.html

If i didnt have my supra id buy that

Do NOT buy a cheap GTR.

Well, if you have 10k sitting around for a rebuild then do it :)

Here's a nice looking one

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tr-t202435.html

If i didnt have my supra id buy that

yeah i saw that one..that would be a very nice buy.

no i dont have a spare 10k for a rebuild. I was thinking of maybe buying a cheap one with a blown motor or something cheap, would it be worth it doing it that way or should i just spend to get one thats running in good condition?

GTR - looking at a completely stock/v lightly modded example - i've seen that they go for about 18-20. But i was talking to Az from phoenix imports and he reckons he can get an 89-92 for 10,500, and a 92-94 model for 12,500 landed and complianced. What extra costs are involved with this cos that sounds real cheap.

Short answer? Those prices are completely unrealistic, and if you buy a cheap R32 GTR, you will be making a big financial mistake that will bite you in the ass.

With your budget, you should be looking for a nice GTS-T

Short answer? Those prices are completely unrealistic, and if you buy a cheap R32 GTR, you will be making a big financial mistake that will bite you in the ass.

With your budget, you should be looking for a nice GTS-T

so are you telling me the GTRs i've seen for about 20k aren't worth it? Like JET-32R. It wasn't overly expensive and i would've thought it was a good car?

so are you telling me the GTRs i've seen for about 20k aren't worth it? Like JET-32R. It wasn't overly expensive and i would've thought it was a good car?

I didn't say that, I was actually referring to the prices you quoted as being available via Pheonix Imports.

I should have clarified :)

I can definitely recommend Aussie Car Compliance: http://www.aussiecarcompliance.com.au/cars4sale.htm

I bought my car off Joel and it has barely missed a beat. The cars they sell are top-notch, not too thrashed (visibly, but I bought my R33 GTS-T with 55,000k's and engine compression tested at 150psi across all cylinders (ie. very good!))

No offence or nothing, as i think he's a site sponsor and all... But check out the cars thoroughly is all i can say. I went looking with a mate and his dad who's a panel beater... and wasn't many cars there (1) that hadn't had body repairs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...