Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am trying to get my RB30/25DET running using a plug in Autronic ECU.

We have it running ok, BUT went the engine rpm is increased the ignition timing

increases correspondingly.

ie

idle 0deg, 3000rpm 20deg

idle 10 deg 3000rpm 30 deg

the timing keeps advancing further the more we rev it.

It is not mechanical as all new belts, idlers, etc, and has run on std ecu ok.

A friend is helping with the tuning and he thinks its not the ecu as he has the idle map, and timing map, and ignition mean angle all the same - 10deg i think.

He has tried different cyc trigger edge, digital angle filter, sync, and a lot of other shiit i dont understand.

nothing changes - still advances with rpm.

the CAS has had a 6 pulse gear tooth sensor installed by our local NZ distrubutor - who also has no idea why it it doing this...

any ideas would be greatly appreciated

cheers rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203149-timing-drift-autronic-ecu/
Share on other sites

You could try putting a scope on the cas, it may need pull up resisters on the signal wire to clean up the signal. So the ignition maps are all set flat?Have you set the maps to zero and downloaded it to the ecu? Sounds like it could still have the base map in it and is advancing like it should

Edited by Adriano
You could try putting a scope on the cas, it may need pull up resisters on the signal wire to clean up the signal. So the ignition maps are all set flat?Have you set the maps to zero and downloaded it to the ecu? Sounds like it could still have the base map in it and is advancing like it should

All maps set to zero.

Put scope on CAS, apparently ecu is not changing anything.

This is real fustrating, its been a few years in the making and I just want it to go...

post-29626-1201472963_thumb.jpg[

you need to find someone with another autronic ecu, load their map into your ecu and see if it runs their car properly, to work out if its an ecu hardware/firmware issue or a engine mechanical issue.

speaking of which tried upgrading/downgrading firmware if thats possible?

Edited by RB30-POWER

What edge are you firing the igniter on? Rising or falling? Have you set them to constant duty or constant dwell?

You say the CAS now has 6 pulse gear tooth. I assume this is now using a magnetic trigger? What edge are you triggering off?

Just to be sure, does the ECU have a timing lock function?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...