Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well they arent really that difficult to make, more the time taken to work out the alignment that makes the one offs more expensive.

i'll probably look into making the adapters once mine are finished off

well they arent really that difficult to make, more the time taken to work out the alignment that makes the one offs more expensive.

i'll probably look into making the adapters once mine are finished off

Just wondering what people are paying for the machining? The actual design is quite easy to nut out.

If anyone is looking for evo brembos, they are EVERYWHERE!!! in the US. I picked up two full sets (front and rear) in florida for 700 bucks!

If your going to make some Craved I'll be interested.

Cheers

Justin

sweet, i found some for $650, what discs are you guys gonna use, come on craved hurry up and find the one peice rotors we need :P

I don't know what rotors i'm going to use yet. somthing commondore i recon. easy and cheap. something with a little more inset so I can run most regular rims.

The Brembo EVOs do have massive pistons compared to anything offered for Nissans by the aftermarket. Combined with the fact that they then are being used with a larger rotor then anything Mitsu or Nissan use. You need to have something pretty serious plans for the rear and then need to allow for any difference between an EVO and a Skyline with regards to pedal ratios and master cylinder sizes. To mean not only the bias works well but the pedal doesnt end up too sensitive or too long

I have read about plenty of people wanting to do this...but few have. So will be interesting to read the results as on paper it will take a bit of work to get working well

And Zebra. the 4 pot FPVs are essentially an F50 caliper though they use larger pistons as well. They are radial mount vs the lug mount of the EVO.

As for machining, if you give people the file, then you can still expect to pay up to $400 a corner. Can get them cheaper, but depends on what you are machining as you need to consider the set up time, any programming and material cost. Its easy to see where 4-5 hours goes and hence the labour cost adds up on top of material costs

Edited by Roy

what kind of serious plans for the rear are you thinking Roy?

once they are in place i'll start looking into the M/C sizes etc for feel and feedback - though i think the gtst brakes are fairly touchy so a longer pedal should allow a bit more control.

Are the rears not bolt on???

If your going to go to the truble to design custom dog bones/adapters you could make comonly available rotors work.

also r34 gtr master cylinder is the same size as the EVO. so easy to re-fitt.

If the master cylinder size is the same then thats a an R34 at 26.9mm then that is a good starting point. But you also need to consider the pedal ratio as that is the other variable from a hydraulics standpoint. Also need to consider that different cylinders often have different bias - proportioning springs in them and that is related to the weight bias of the car

Well the first thing that springs to mind would be something like an EVO rear as I assume that they use considerably bigger pistons then the GTR Brembos. But have never checked. The thing I dont have agood feel for is when you start to run 330mm + rears with thicknesses up over 26mm what it means regarding the pads you need to run. I guess you end up being able to run a very low temp pad as you would have huge amounts of cooling in the rear with very little bias...unless you have serisous rear aero that allows you to run more rear bias then normal.

But i think you may need to look at some Porsche rear 4 pots as they tend to run slightly larger pistons then ideal being rear engined and able to run plenty of rear bias.

You think GTSt brakes are touchy? To potter around with or when you are screaming along and jumping on them. I think its best to work on 100% braking feel, capacity and performance and how they feel when potting along is what you live with. That way when you are up it on the track etc they are working well and heaven forbid you need to brake in an emergecy situation on the road that they perform equally well.

LOL, like all things, the more you change the more variables you introdice. But imagine it will be rewarding when you understand it all what affected what and it works well!

Edited by Roy

From an aftermarket standpoint many make 1-pce 355mm rotors. OE there are a few like 370Z and some other later model Nissans, and FG Falcons. There are others but not with the same PCD-bolt pattern. The ford uses a bigger hub centre diam hole so dont really bolt on as such 71.8mm vs 68mm of the Nissans. Means the 370Z is probably the best bet but the offset is fairly different between them and earlier Nissans, about 5mm from memory

Edited by Roy
From an aftermarket standpoint many make 1-pce 355mm rotors. OE there are a few like 370Z and some other later model Nissans, and FG Falcons. There are others but not with the same PCD-bolt pattern. The ford uses a bigger hub centre diam hole so dont really bolt on as such 71.8mm vs 68mm of the Nissans. Means the 370Z is probably the best bet but the offset is fairly different between them and earlier Nissans, about 5mm from memory

ok so 370z discs will mount but need custom brackets,but custom brackets are needed anyway,

is the piston size the main advantage for brakes? if so is it possible to bore out and run oversized pistons in stock calipers?

DBA 370z disc are 354.6 x 32mm 114.3x5 pcd,

# PART # dia. height thick. min. thick. centre hole # of bolt holes pcd

354.6 49.5 32 30 68 5 114.3

Position DBA # Product Type Description

Front DBA2314 Street Series Standard Left/right-hand Vented

Front DBA2314SL Street Series Slotted Left-hand Vented

Front DBA2314SR Street Series Slotted Right-hand Vented

Front DBA42314SR 4000 Series Slotted Right-hand Vented

Front DBA42314SL 4000 Series Slotted Left-hand Vented

Front DBA42314 4000 Series Standard Left/right-hand Vented

Front DBA52314BLKSL 5000 Series Slotted Left-hand Vented

Front DBA52314BLKSR 5000 Series Slotted Right-hand Vented

Front DBA52314GLDXS 5000 Series Xs Left/right-hand Vented

Front DBA52314BLKXS 5000 Series Xs Left/right-hand Vented

Really depends on if you want to use DBA or another brand

The 2314's look to be the go for the front end and somthing like 929's for the ass end...

Can anyone pm me what they're paying to get adapters/dogbones fabricated? I can do the design. Also what materials are people using?

Cheers

Justin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...