Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Jap Split Dump/front Pipe

DAV-R32

By DAV-R32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DAV-R32 Collaborator

DAV-R32

Posted
Posted

hi everyone,

i was wondering if anyone has bought or all ready got one of those just jap RB20 split dump/front pipe on their car.

Im planning to get one and a high flow cat they got on sale for $160. Just want to know how good is the craftmanship,

performance wise- any difference ? does it turn purple afterwards and the metal turn out crappy etc etc.

iam not sure if i should buy one from just jap or the group buy that is on at the moment.

any information will help guys so leave a reply :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204729-just-jap-split-dumpfront-pipe/
Share on other sites
-33- Community Regular

-33-

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got one (its not on an RB20, its on an RB25). I bought it as part of a full turbo-back exhaust system from Just jap, with the high-flow cat.

Performance-wise, i noticed a BIG difference to be honest, especially up high in the rev-range. Definitely lets the turbo breath a bit better. Its still going fine for me (haven't had a look to see if its gone purple though), and the craftsmanship seemed pretty decent when i inspected it after purchase. I fitted it myself with a couple of mates (at 2 am in a shopping car park LOL) and had a tiny bit of trouble bolting the dump up. Just make sure u use the couple of the gaskets that are provided, as well as the stock metal one to make sure theres no leaks - otherwise it may come a bit short.

Heaps of people will argue for/against the split till the cows come home. My opinion is that the split arrangement should theoretically improve transient response: although the wastegate & turbine gases do ultimately meet anyway where the split pipes merge into the front pipe, the initial twin piping should help to keep the gas streams separate. This in turn reduces turbulence directly adjacent to the turbine and allows your turbo to work that little bit easier.

In any case, its definitely an upgrade over the stock item you've got.

hi everyone,

i was wondering if anyone has bought or all ready got one of those just jap RB20 split dump/front pipe on their car.

Im planning to get one and a high flow cat they got on sale for $160. Just want to know how good is the craftmanship,

performance wise- any difference ? does it turn purple afterwards and the metal turn out crappy etc etc.

iam not sure if i should buy one from just jap or the group buy that is on at the moment.

any information will help guys so leave a reply :D

Edited by -33-
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

I have one on my R33 25-t, performance wise like the others have said it feels like a big improvement up high.

Only issues i came across was one of the bottom bolts is tricky to do up because of the immediate bend of the dump pipe. It IS possible tho, you just need to use your head :cheers:

And the turbo water feed is kinda "leant" on by the dump pipe and manifold heat shield.

After 1st installing it i got mass amounts of white smoke burning off it, that went away pretty quick. When a sexy gold colour, then obviously got damp, as it will, and got a purple tinge to it.

Whoe cares tho. You cant really see it with a stock turbo and heat shield.

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

i got one with CATCO 3'inch high flow cat, with Trust/Greddy 3'inch front dump pipe, 3'inch Greddy/Trust PEII extreme with some brand split dump pipe from the turbo... and i tell ya the improvement is excellent!

Levi_ Proficient

Levi_

Posted
Posted

Just fitted one to my r33 last night, along with a de-cat pipe. The quality is pretty damn good and I managed to fit it with a friend without any major hassles (nothing but hand-tools) in about 3 hours. Haven't had a chance to take it for a good drive yet, but I assume it'll have my car running even more lean than before.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
Just fitted one to my r33 last night, along with a de-cat pipe. The quality is pretty damn good and I managed to fit it with a friend without any major hassles (nothing but hand-tools) in about 3 hours. Haven't had a chance to take it for a good drive yet, but I assume it'll have my car running even more lean than before.

So what did you guys do with the water line?

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

Im looking at putting one of these on when i upgrade my turbo, just wondering if anyone has thought of tapping into the external dump pipe from the wastegate and putting and external wastegte in there and removing the internal flapper, will this give better boost control?

-33- Community Regular

-33-

Posted
Posted

^^^ Well there's heaps of split dump pipes out there that have an open wastegate pipe (i.e. not welded back into the front pipe like an ordinary split). It probably would help surge and give better exhaust flow as well. Have a look and see if you can find anyone running one of those. Although if you are getting an aftermarket turbo and are thinking of that sort of setup, why not just get an external wastegate?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...