Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

news...

well the guys at hills went to the effort of putting developing a plug in loom extension to swap the pins required for the late s1 stageas. What they didn't get sorted out is some sort of difference between the 34 gtt and late stagea coils which caused the #6 ignition chip to burn out after about 30 min. PFC is off for repairs, then a firmware upgrade to sort that, then we will be back in business. 2-3 weeks probably.

this has been a real saga. I recommend aganist buying a late s1 stagea if you are thinking about modifying it - stick to the early model where everything works ok

  • 2 months later...

bloody hell this thread went on too long!

anyway, I've got the car back with the PFC in and all running beautifully. a hell of a lot of work went into getting it working. the good news is I didn't really pay for the development (just a tune) but that means I can't really share the wiring changes (except to say there are a lot). Mark @ Hills Motorsport finally worked through it all and has developed a piggy back loom so the standard wiring doesn't require modification. Anyone with 9/97-8/98 stagea really should talk to him to get it sorted.

The standard auto ECU was working very poorly with the manual conversion (looks like this is another late series ECU surprise). The late ECUs put heaps of timing in over 4000 when it doesn't get a signal from the ECU (45o at 4500!!) which turned out to be the cause of my pinging problem....I had changed the fuel pump, FPR, air flow meter trying to chase that problem. It also runs very very rich (up to 9.5:1) and to add insult to injury the closed loop (02 sensors) turn off over 2800rpm and 1/4 throttle, no wonder fuel economy was woeful.....PFC has sorted it all out perfectly.

I will work out how to overlay the original dyno graph (130rwkw) with the new one, they are a very interesting comparison

Its now making 175awkw at 13psi....which made the clutch slip so boost is back down to 11psi (155awkw). but most importantly the mid range is very strong, and the initial throttle response 1000-1500rpm is noticeably sharper. top end really runs out of puff though.

mods are:

3" turbo back exhaust

11psi boost (greddy profec b)

manual conversion

r34 power fc with wiring changes

intercooler, injectors, turbo, intake etc are standard.

right now it will stay as is, its taken ages to get it sorted after the manual conversion, and now with the extra power, sydneykid's suspension, interior goodies it is very nice to drive and suits it's job very well (towing, moving the kids around and daily driver). I'm not looking to push it power-wise or anything, it just needed a bit more poke than it used to have.

if the opportunity comes up for the right price I will do:

front mount (it was really quite hot on the dyno even at 11 psi.) personally I don't think the 34 sidemount can make enough difference to be worthwhile, but I've never tested back to back

skyline cams and a cam gear

new clutch

highflow turbo

but I am certainly not in a rush.

not sure yet, I am running the first full tank now. welcome to the difficult ecu club btw.

tangles, I've run remaps for years in the race cars and am very happy with them as well. its just that there are some extra costs for the daughterboard/ecu mods in these cars, and they are a little harder to retune. But I think its a very viable option.

not sure yet, I am running the first full tank now. welcome to the difficult ecu club btw.

tangles, I've run remaps for years in the race cars and am very happy with them as well. its just that there are some extra costs for the daughterboard/ecu mods in these cars, and they are a little harder to retune. But I think its a very viable option.

nice, Im new to turbo's, and I definately suggest a Toshi remap in conjunction with a piggyback such as safc/sitc, emanage ultimate, haltech interceptor etc.

mod chip plate is a cple hundred, chip and tune is the same, plus soldering costs for the mod chip plate bracket holder

mark @ hills is also looking for someone with an auto that wants to run pfc. they have done a lot of work on running pfcs with the auto trans computer and need a stagea to get it sorted out

Got my car back today and it feels totally different!!! Here's the work I had done:

FMIC installed (finally!!!) - GReddy Spec R-HG return feed kit;

PowerFC installed and tuned (finally!!!);

X-Force split front/dump pipe;

X-Force high-flow catalytic converter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...