Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

news...

well the guys at hills went to the effort of putting developing a plug in loom extension to swap the pins required for the late s1 stageas. What they didn't get sorted out is some sort of difference between the 34 gtt and late stagea coils which caused the #6 ignition chip to burn out after about 30 min. PFC is off for repairs, then a firmware upgrade to sort that, then we will be back in business. 2-3 weeks probably.

this has been a real saga. I recommend aganist buying a late s1 stagea if you are thinking about modifying it - stick to the early model where everything works ok

  • 2 months later...

bloody hell this thread went on too long!

anyway, I've got the car back with the PFC in and all running beautifully. a hell of a lot of work went into getting it working. the good news is I didn't really pay for the development (just a tune) but that means I can't really share the wiring changes (except to say there are a lot). Mark @ Hills Motorsport finally worked through it all and has developed a piggy back loom so the standard wiring doesn't require modification. Anyone with 9/97-8/98 stagea really should talk to him to get it sorted.

The standard auto ECU was working very poorly with the manual conversion (looks like this is another late series ECU surprise). The late ECUs put heaps of timing in over 4000 when it doesn't get a signal from the ECU (45o at 4500!!) which turned out to be the cause of my pinging problem....I had changed the fuel pump, FPR, air flow meter trying to chase that problem. It also runs very very rich (up to 9.5:1) and to add insult to injury the closed loop (02 sensors) turn off over 2800rpm and 1/4 throttle, no wonder fuel economy was woeful.....PFC has sorted it all out perfectly.

I will work out how to overlay the original dyno graph (130rwkw) with the new one, they are a very interesting comparison

Its now making 175awkw at 13psi....which made the clutch slip so boost is back down to 11psi (155awkw). but most importantly the mid range is very strong, and the initial throttle response 1000-1500rpm is noticeably sharper. top end really runs out of puff though.

mods are:

3" turbo back exhaust

11psi boost (greddy profec b)

manual conversion

r34 power fc with wiring changes

intercooler, injectors, turbo, intake etc are standard.

right now it will stay as is, its taken ages to get it sorted after the manual conversion, and now with the extra power, sydneykid's suspension, interior goodies it is very nice to drive and suits it's job very well (towing, moving the kids around and daily driver). I'm not looking to push it power-wise or anything, it just needed a bit more poke than it used to have.

if the opportunity comes up for the right price I will do:

front mount (it was really quite hot on the dyno even at 11 psi.) personally I don't think the 34 sidemount can make enough difference to be worthwhile, but I've never tested back to back

skyline cams and a cam gear

new clutch

highflow turbo

but I am certainly not in a rush.

not sure yet, I am running the first full tank now. welcome to the difficult ecu club btw.

tangles, I've run remaps for years in the race cars and am very happy with them as well. its just that there are some extra costs for the daughterboard/ecu mods in these cars, and they are a little harder to retune. But I think its a very viable option.

not sure yet, I am running the first full tank now. welcome to the difficult ecu club btw.

tangles, I've run remaps for years in the race cars and am very happy with them as well. its just that there are some extra costs for the daughterboard/ecu mods in these cars, and they are a little harder to retune. But I think its a very viable option.

nice, Im new to turbo's, and I definately suggest a Toshi remap in conjunction with a piggyback such as safc/sitc, emanage ultimate, haltech interceptor etc.

mod chip plate is a cple hundred, chip and tune is the same, plus soldering costs for the mod chip plate bracket holder

mark @ hills is also looking for someone with an auto that wants to run pfc. they have done a lot of work on running pfcs with the auto trans computer and need a stagea to get it sorted out

Got my car back today and it feels totally different!!! Here's the work I had done:

FMIC installed (finally!!!) - GReddy Spec R-HG return feed kit;

PowerFC installed and tuned (finally!!!);

X-Force split front/dump pipe;

X-Force high-flow catalytic converter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...