Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

last night i was driving home from drift prac (was watching not drifting) and then my missus pointed out that my turbo timer was slowly creaping up in the time and i was just cruising along in 5th gear at about 100km. at one stage it got to about 4mins 30secs. this is the 1st time i have seen it do it and found it very strange.

then i went to a mates house and let the car cool down, then left to drop missus home and every time i boost it the timer goes up a little bit.

does anyone know whats the problem with that?

Cheers Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

do you have a greddy timer?

if so, you can change it to P-1 or P-2 mode, and set it to whatever time you want to set it to.

Ideally i just set it for 10 seconds on normal street use

and keep it at 7-10 mins when on the track

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635589
Share on other sites

yea its the greddy timer, because i usually boost it as most do, i have never seen the time creep up before till last night.

i got it set on 30secs for normal driving

you need to hold the power, and the second button from the left together (i think) - until you get P-1 or P-2 showing on the screen - then set it for the desired time. If its on P-1 or P-2 it wont go past the set time (say 30 seconds).

shouldnt it be at least a min? how do you know how long it should be set for???

I put it at 10 seconds, cos usually in the last 5 mins before i get to my destination i make sure i granny the car in :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635629
Share on other sites

not sure man - but i think what most people do is they drive without hitting boost for the last few minutes before destination and that i hear is more than enough.....

it depends on the person.

I used to have mine for 1 minute before, but that i feel is not realy needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635665
Share on other sites

If you drive the car normally then even if you have a turbo timer you dont need to use it...

Its only when you boost the car is when you need to cool down the turbo. Howwever most poeple (Me included) feel more comfortable using the turbo timer. In which case after normal driving 30 seconds is fine. 1 min and 20 seconds is far to long if you just been putting around. Shouldnt matter what turbo you are using...

And i think your Greddy turbo timer is moving up cause it has a setting which enables the turbo timer to determine how long your car should be cooled down depending on your REVS. My greddy does the same thing. But as was mentioned before putting it on P-1 or P-2 can let you set the amount of time.

I usually have P-1 set at 2 mins and P-2 set at 30 seconds. So depending on my driving ill choose between the two.

Hope this helps you out =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635957
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

That creeping is the auto timer feature in the unit.

i have it as well..

When your car is doing higher revs or there is a big load on the motor the time goes up. it judges it by the rpm.

I think this feature is better than setting it yourself.

mines set to min 20 seconds and will creep if i use the freeway or keep it at high revs the numbers go up.

my 2c

GOOGLE FOR THE MANUAL OR ASK SOMEONE ON HERE!!! there is so many other features on that turbo timer.

V guage, A/F n some others i think

Edited by lighty01
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3682515
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...