Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

last night i was driving home from drift prac (was watching not drifting) and then my missus pointed out that my turbo timer was slowly creaping up in the time and i was just cruising along in 5th gear at about 100km. at one stage it got to about 4mins 30secs. this is the 1st time i have seen it do it and found it very strange.

then i went to a mates house and let the car cool down, then left to drop missus home and every time i boost it the timer goes up a little bit.

does anyone know whats the problem with that?

Cheers Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

do you have a greddy timer?

if so, you can change it to P-1 or P-2 mode, and set it to whatever time you want to set it to.

Ideally i just set it for 10 seconds on normal street use

and keep it at 7-10 mins when on the track

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635589
Share on other sites

yea its the greddy timer, because i usually boost it as most do, i have never seen the time creep up before till last night.

i got it set on 30secs for normal driving

you need to hold the power, and the second button from the left together (i think) - until you get P-1 or P-2 showing on the screen - then set it for the desired time. If its on P-1 or P-2 it wont go past the set time (say 30 seconds).

shouldnt it be at least a min? how do you know how long it should be set for???

I put it at 10 seconds, cos usually in the last 5 mins before i get to my destination i make sure i granny the car in :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635629
Share on other sites

not sure man - but i think what most people do is they drive without hitting boost for the last few minutes before destination and that i hear is more than enough.....

it depends on the person.

I used to have mine for 1 minute before, but that i feel is not realy needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635665
Share on other sites

If you drive the car normally then even if you have a turbo timer you dont need to use it...

Its only when you boost the car is when you need to cool down the turbo. Howwever most poeple (Me included) feel more comfortable using the turbo timer. In which case after normal driving 30 seconds is fine. 1 min and 20 seconds is far to long if you just been putting around. Shouldnt matter what turbo you are using...

And i think your Greddy turbo timer is moving up cause it has a setting which enables the turbo timer to determine how long your car should be cooled down depending on your REVS. My greddy does the same thing. But as was mentioned before putting it on P-1 or P-2 can let you set the amount of time.

I usually have P-1 set at 2 mins and P-2 set at 30 seconds. So depending on my driving ill choose between the two.

Hope this helps you out =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3635957
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

That creeping is the auto timer feature in the unit.

i have it as well..

When your car is doing higher revs or there is a big load on the motor the time goes up. it judges it by the rpm.

I think this feature is better than setting it yourself.

mines set to min 20 seconds and will creep if i use the freeway or keep it at high revs the numbers go up.

my 2c

GOOGLE FOR THE MANUAL OR ASK SOMEONE ON HERE!!! there is so many other features on that turbo timer.

V guage, A/F n some others i think

Edited by lighty01
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205327-turbo-timer/#findComment-3682515
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
  • Create New...