Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

For those you who owns a R33 Series 2 with the stock front bar,

I'm pretty sure you get an eyesore from looking at the front amber indicator lens.

Here's a little tutorial I've made where I took out the amber lens and replaced them with some custom plastic lens.

First of all, you'll need to take out the foglight/indicator assembly out of the front bar.

If you have a FMIC then you'll probably have to take off the front bar or headlight (whichever one's easier)

If you have just a stock SMIC then it's pretty simple to take out,

There are 2 10mm bolts on the inside of each foglight/indicator assembly,

One is located near the middle, the other is close to the edge where the piping would be if you had a FMIC.

After you took out these 2 bolts, there is clip that holds the foglight/indicator assembly to the front bar,

Push down on the clip to pull the foglight/indicator assembly out,

Then disconnect the foglight/indicator connector from the car to take out the foglight/indicator assembly.

Secondly you'll need to remove the amber indicator lens from the foglight/indicator assembly.

There are six screws holding the front cover of the foglight/indicator assembly, unscrew them and you'll be able to take the cover out.

Then heat the foglight/indicator assembly in the oven at 160-180 degrees for 5 minutes to melt the glue that's holding the lens in.

Use a screwdriver and gradually anchered the lens out, do be careful not to get the glue onto the indicator slot's reflector.

If the glue hasn't melted sufficiently, put the foglight/indicator assembly back in the oven for another 2-3 minutes and try again.

You can try breaking the lens if you don't intend to use it anymore, but there could still be some little amber fragments glued on.

Thirdly is to fabricate the lens, I bought my plastic lens material from The Plastic Centre.

They're located at 192 Princes Highway Arncliffe NSW, there's lots to choose from, smoked, opague, frost ... etc.

Costed me around $20 which isn't bad, but that's the minimum you'll have to spend anyway.

Try to get the lens between 4mm-6mm in thickness, any thicker and it won't fit into the assembly.

Next thing to do is cut the material down to a size to fit into the indicator slot.

Get a piece of paper and trace the outer edge of the amber indicator lens that you've just took out.

Cut out the shape and draw it on the lens material using a marker/highlighter (preferrably light in colour).

then using that thermo heating pen, melt the plastic material into that shape.

I'd advice you get a 50W+ thermo heating pen, as mine was I think 30W and it's a bit slow to melt the material.

Remove excess plastic with snippers or your fingers when it's still warm and file it smooth.

Finally after the lens are made and fits well, just use some strong insulated black tape to hold the lens onto the foglight/indicator assembly.

Seal it and make sure no water can leak into the lens.

Then it's simply screwing the front cover on and bolting the foglight/indicator assembly back onto the front bar.

The foglight lens still looks different to the indicator lens,

That's because the indicator slot's reflector is not as shiny/reflective as the folglight slot's reflector

So underneath you'll find some pics with a few hints of where everything is.

If you have any questions then bugger off and figure out for yourself :thanks:

post-36123-1202634348_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634400_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634427_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634456_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634512_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634555_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634594_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634636_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634674_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634927_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202634946_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202635029_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1202635122_thumb.jpg

looks awesome. I always considered if i owned an r33 buying two of the driving lamps and placing them on the outside and wiring them as the indicators with orange bulbs. Dunno if they fit the outside hole though.

This looks great!

  • 3 months later...

Maybe you're looking for something like this. :P;):P

Of course, anything is possible if you put you're mind to it.

Good luck

Shaft

looks awesome. I always considered if i owned an r33 buying two of the driving lamps and placing them on the outside and wiring them as the indicators with orange bulbs. Dunno if they fit the outside hole though.

This looks great!

post-45965-1210509774_thumb.jpg

post-45965-1210510243_thumb.jpg

Edited by shaft no 1

That looks awesome

Might have to give this a try :P

Also you got a pic of when the light is on?

Just wanna see what it would look like when you turn on the indicators

ta

Edit: I think i spotted you on sat night?? did you go thru the m5?

Edited by siddr20

nah think again, I was on the M5 just afternoon on saturday

anyway here's a few pics I just took from the garage.

it's not as bright as it looks, but you get the picture.

post-36123-1210600167_thumb.jpg

post-36123-1210600202_thumb.jpg

Edited by POLICE
  • 4 years later...

i know its been a long time since this thread has been posted in but thought id post some pics of my 33 with this done. All up cost about $5 for the platic lenses and $14 for the amber globe paint. Took around an hour and its definatly worth the time and money!!! No more crappy orange indictors :)

post-90395-0-25259200-1349680202_thumb.jpg

post-90395-0-81100000-1349680216_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...