Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some aboriginal (not being racist) offered me a "hot" BMW badge in the city last week. He was asking $15 - straight off an M3.

Seems like these days the GTR badge is hot property? Probably another GTS-T owner wanting it to make his a "GTR"... I'm seeing that more these days, too!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205829-badged/page/2/#findComment-3643835
Share on other sites

Just got off the phone with Nissan,

$190 for the barrel & 2keys but there'll be @least a 2wk wait cos it needs to come from Japan. This doesn't include fittment eitha :P I knew there mustv been lil kids on the rampage, last time my car was egged & before hand i noticed lil

sh$%s scoping thins out. Can u say i love BP Happywash @3am on Sat's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205829-badged/page/2/#findComment-3644700
Share on other sites

ask sinergy might be cheaper thats where i got my badges from and they were brand new and sealed.

Just gave em a buzz now,

awaiting for a callback with price. I've decided not to worry bout replacing the front badge cos it looks more kinda aggressive without, but any tips on removing the glue left behind without damaging paint? I'm assuming bug/tar remover will do the trick?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205829-badged/page/2/#findComment-3645115
Share on other sites

Just gave em a buzz now,

awaiting for a callback with price. I've decided not to worry bout replacing the front badge cos it looks more kinda aggressive without, but any tips on removing the glue left behind without damaging paint? I'm assuming bug/tar remover will do the trick?

if that doesnt work, try a clay bar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205829-badged/page/2/#findComment-3645268
Share on other sites

Wuld like to kno the same, im very interested. I cant stand the look of the keyhole without it, looks so cheap & violated.

it certainly does look a little cheap and crappy... not nice at all.

There was another thread about re-attaching the badge to the swivel, and someone posted that they successfully re attached it with a 'C' Clip of some sort... i cant see how thats going to work though...

looks like we're due for a completely new badge / barrel unit. :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205829-badged/page/2/#findComment-3645689
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Ebay is your friend!

** edit ** I can't get the damn link to work. Search AU Ebay for "R33 boot" and you will find the boot lock

clicky clicky!

5th one down... linking directly to the auction doesnt seem to work on here!

Edited by vietorious
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205829-badged/page/2/#findComment-3670972
Share on other sites

clicky clicky!

5th one down... linking directly to the auction doesnt seem to work on here!

Thanku so much for that, greatly appreciated!!!! This may in fact just be the spoonful of sugar to help my medicine go down :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205829-badged/page/2/#findComment-3671416
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...