Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I just want to say that now I know why everyone goes wild over changing engine management. A mate of mine has Minimal mods - Exhaust and Front mount only.Boost has not been increased. He got a Apexi Power FC and got it fully tuned up and the car seems like a whole different beast now. Im not too sure if this is normal but just thought it was strange how engine management would change the car so much with minimal mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206132-upgrading-your-ecu-well-worth-it/
Share on other sites

well yeah i mean with any mods it will throw the computers reading out so getting a FC or whatever will correct them plus a full legit tune will definetly see an increase.

id say its normal

wind up the boost a little :D

that said, the gains to be had from going to a stock ecu to a remap/PFC are huge compared to the gains from going from a remap/pfm to another aftermarket ecu.

Obviously there's some hardcore ecu's out there, such as autronic and motec but for the money spent they will only give slight gains over a well tuned PFC. they will however do a lot more and a better job.

Folk on SAU always say: Mod list...1. Intake 2. Exhaust 3. ECU

It's right up there with the basics. Just think...factory ECU's are tuned to run on 100 octane fuel. We only have 98 octane in Oz. That's just one reason to modify engine management.

nothing really. just a cheap way out. doesn't really do much a factory computer can't do.

but couldn't expect much more from a "after market computer" that uses a chipped nissan ecu. basically what dr. drift does.

not any more. and if you have a rb25 forget about it.

meh, $495 for a R33 remapped chip isnt bad price IMO. thats what Yoshi advertised......

add $25 for soldering in, and a dyno session (best if you already have a safc to make more adjustaments)

with rb25 engines, the gains are very significant with a remapped ecu or powerfc because the standard ecu's are so aggresive and sensitive in their protection parameters, you barely need to fit an exhaust and the boost increases a few psi and you are hitting the limits, even if you can't feel it, throw it on a dyno and the graph will typically be all over the shop with dips and holes in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...