Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the GTR twin turbos are smaller than GTST turbo

so its a downgrade

Thanks Paul I Blew My Oil Seal In My Turbo... I Just Want

A. To Get It Fixed (Dont Know Where, Pricing)

B. Direct Fit (No Mods :) And Of Course Pricing)

your options are;

1. get the current busted turbo highflowed - around $2k for a ball bearing unit

2. get a 2nd hand aftermarket turbo (hks 2530, hks 2535, trust td05, apexi ax)

3. get a new aftermarket turbo (hks gt-rs, hks 2835)

being in nsw ask the guys in the NSW area for a list of workshops, theres probably a list already

CRD and UAS are two workshops that come to mind in NSW , no idea where they are from blacktown

your options are;

1. get the current busted turbo highflowed - around $2k for a ball bearing unit

2. get a 2nd hand aftermarket turbo (hks 2530, hks 2535, trust td05, apexi ax)

3. get a new aftermarket turbo (hks gt-rs, hks 2835)

being in nsw ask the guys in the NSW area for a list of workshops, theres probably a list already

CRD and UAS are two workshops that come to mind in NSW , no idea where they are from blacktown

Jeez... Your Quick... Thanks Paul Apppriciate The Help!

:):):banana:

your options are;

1. get the current busted turbo highflowed - around $2k for a ball bearing unit

2. get a 2nd hand aftermarket turbo (hks 2530, hks 2535, trust td05, apexi ax)

3. get a new aftermarket turbo (hks gt-rs, hks 2835)

being in nsw ask the guys in the NSW area for a list of workshops, theres probably a list already

CRD and UAS are two workshops that come to mind in NSW , no idea where they are from blacktown

good concise answer but i think you forgot one more option:

4. buy a second hand one for only around $200-$300 and have it put on......if moneys tight...perfectly viable option

ah yeah sorry forgot 2nd hand stocker jobbie

Yeah Thats What I'm Trying To Do So I Don't Have To Worry About It Turning Into A Ball Of Fire (Exagerated I Know)

Just Finding One Is The Hard Bit, At Least Till I Got the Money For The Original To Get Rebuilt.

Just Don't Wanna Have To Get Stuff Fabricated..

Not A Fan Of Making Things Fit Just Want Them To, I Bought A E-bay t04e With All The Extra Fittings,

And It Still Wont Fit So I'm Selling It On E-bay For $300 Just To Make Back Some Of The Money...

Thanks Guys If You Know Someone With A Stocker Could You Drop us A Line It's A Series II Nylon Wheel Turbo

Thanks Again :laugh:

seriously throw the to4e in the bin

its not worth the hassles, costs and pain and its crap `1960s technology

get your stocker hiflowed (will last another 100,00kms) or buy a 2nd hand stocker for $300

a 2nd hand stocker will be better than an ebay to4e

seriously throw the to4e in the bin

its not worth the hassles, costs and pain and its crap `1960s technology

get your stocker hiflowed (will last another 100,00kms) or buy a 2nd hand stocker for $300

a 2nd hand stocker will be better than an ebay to4e

I Am Getting Rid Of It Paul Nothing Fits Just got Desperate, Hey What Do They Do When They hiflow Turbos??

What Does It Acheive?? I Understand The Ball Bearing Bit But Not The Rest?!?!?

hi nic

when a turbo is "old" the bearings and seals become worn

the actual wheels themselves are reasonalby ok

so when they highflow a turbo they rip out the bearing kit (known as CHRA) and replace it with a new ball bearing pack

they replace the wheels with steel wheelies (gets rid of ceramic and plastic wheels), balance it, and service the lines (oil and water)

the only parts that are "retained" when highflowing are the housings and compressors cover as they don't "wear out"

they even bore out the exhaust snout to get more "flow" out of it - hence the name highflowing

the only difference between servicing a turbo at its scheduled 100,000km interval and hiflowing is

they fit bigger/better wheels and bore out the snout exhaust hole to get more flow out of it

hi nic

when a turbo is "old" the bearings and seals become worn

the actual wheels themselves are reasonalby ok

so when they highflow a turbo they rip out the bearing kit (known as CHRA) and replace it with a new ball bearing pack

they replace the wheels with steel wheelies (gets rid of ceramic and plastic wheels), balance it, and service the lines (oil and water)

the only parts that are "retained" when highflowing are the housings and compressors cover as they don't "wear out"

they even bore out the exhaust snout to get more "flow" out of it - hence the name highflowing

the only difference between servicing a turbo at its scheduled 100,000km interval and hiflowing is

they fit bigger/better wheels and bore out the snout exhaust hole to get more flow out of it

ok That clears it all up... your a wealth of knowledge for someone in distress, thanks paul

no worries

the main issue with fitting another 2nd hand jobbie is - its age and likelyness to fail

its going to be a 10+ year old plus turbocharger with cermamic wheels etc

and theres a chance (minor) that when it fails , it takes the engine down with it, need a full rebuild

so sometimes its better to just bite the bullet and pay for a highflow

but on the other end of the scale i have my rb25t with 185,000 on it and std turbo

with std specs and no highflow / rebuild etc so its 85,000 overdue for a 'overhaul' - the turbo is

so i guess you could say its likely to fail - i run 12psi and trash it

but i dont "think" it will take down the engine too when it fails - so i dont justify the $ in rebuild the turbo

no worries

the main issue with fitting another 2nd hand jobbie is - its age and likelyness to fail

its going to be a 10+ year old plus turbocharger with cermamic wheels etc

and theres a chance (minor) that when it fails , it takes the engine down with it, need a full rebuild

so sometimes its better to just bite the bullet and pay for a highflow

but on the other end of the scale i have my rb25t with 185,000 on it and std turbo

with std specs and no highflow / rebuild etc so its 85,000 overdue for a 'overhaul' - the turbo is

so i guess you could say its likely to fail - i run 12psi and trash it

but i dont "think" it will take down the engine too when it fails - so i dont justify the $ in rebuild the turbo

sounds much like myself, the only reason this tubo blew out was because the cheap SH!TE boost controller that came with it loosened and ran 20 psi before my eyes... (Imagine eyes 3 inches out of my head)

UAS is in Seven Hills just around the corner from you.

9620 9000

thanks i know of them they will be tuning my safc II when it arrives monday, don't know if i should get it tuned due to the turbo?? any ideas?

they wont be able to tune it without a working turbo, and if it is still running, they will have to retune when you replace it

Thought so... Is It Possible To Just Fix The Oil Seal on My Turbo... NO Hiflow Or Comp Wheel Changes?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...