Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey People, Im now seriously considering buying an R34 GTR, i didnt realise u can get them for around $50k now. Just wondering if you can give me an approximate price to expect selling the below mentioned stuff

R33 GTST - Sunroof, $130,000KM (reverted to stock)

19" XHP Chrome Boost wheels with 95% tread (seperate to car)

New Power FC for RB25 (only used to move car in and out of garage). bought from autobarn with reciepts 4 weeks ago.

Hybrid Intercooler

Turbosmart Stage 3 Stealth BOV full plum back system (cost abou $700+)

Autometer Boost Gague (big one)

HKS 3037 Pro S bolt on kit for R33 (bolted up to car, started but not driven) 0.68 rear

Just looking at rough estimates. ive still got about $6000 to spend on car including tuning, coils and injectors.. its seeming like a big waste of money. I have all stock parts to replace back on skyline.

post-46561-1203353802_thumb.jpg

Edited by SLYDA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206695-thinking-of-selling-r33-for-34-gtr/
Share on other sites

This crossed my mind a few times. Just bare in mind that once you've bought that 50K car, think of the mods you've done/planned to do to the R33, and then times 1.5 (or even 2x) and realise that you'll want to spend that EXTRA money on the GTR. That's the deal breaker for me. That, and my knees are already at risk from my current loan hahah

there is no way in hell, your series 1 skyline will sell for $18K with all those in and tuned.

no way!

if you are looking to make the most money you can from it, take it back to stock EVERYTHING and sell it for $12K if you are lucky.

then sell the turbo, cooler, pfc, wheels etc.

apart from the PFC, no-one is going to pay you what you paid for it for any of those items, even if it was plugged in and turned on to check the time or whatever your reasoning is.

skylines really are dime a dozen these days.

I'm not trying to be mean or puting yor car down.

I'm just trying to make sure that you don't go advertise your car for $18K to find that it is $4K over every other GTST there.

Take a look at what a stock series 2 goes for and take off $2K to your asking price, then be prepared to sell it for almost $2K less than that.

then get your $40K loan for the R34 GTR.

there is no way in hell, your series 1 skyline will sell for $18K with all those in and tuned.

no way!

if you are looking to make the most money you can from it, take it back to stock EVERYTHING and sell it for $12K if you are lucky.

then sell the turbo, cooler, pfc, wheels etc.

apart from the PFC, no-one is going to pay you what you paid for it for any of those items, even if it was plugged in and turned on to check the time or whatever your reasoning is.

skylines really are dime a dozen these days.

I'm not trying to be mean or puting yor car down.

I'm just trying to make sure that you don't go advertise your car for $18K to find that it is $4K over every other GTST there.

Take a look at what a stock series 2 goes for and take off $2K to your asking price, then be prepared to sell it for almost $2K less than that.

then get your $40K loan for the R34 GTR.

taking it back to stock was the plan all along. :).. my reasoning is exactally what u stated.. could sell the car for $15k all included.. or take the crap off it, sell it seperatly. i was just wanting peoples estimates as to what i could sell the stuff for seperatley

as for front bar, i have no idea :).. think bomex?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...