Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey, if it's a company car - he will be leasing it no doubt - so you can knock the GST off the price, not to mention there is a fleet discount for the grabbing - The RRP or List price of the car is more like $34,000to $35,000 if he has $30K to spend..

That opens the field a liitle more...

New Vectra

VECTRA%20MY03%20SED%20CD_F.jpg

VECTRA%20MY03%20SED%20CD_I.jpg

16" Alloy Wheels, 9 Speaker Stereo, ABS (Antilock Brakes), Adjustable Steering Col. - Tilt & Reach, Air Conditioning, Airbags - Driver & Passenger (Dual), Airbags - Side for Front Occupants, Armrest - Front Centre (Shared), Armrest - Rear Centre (Shared), Body Coloured Bumpers, Brake Assist, CD Player, Central Locking - Remote/Keyless, Chrome Grille, Chrome Interior highlights, Control - Corner Braking, Control - Traction, Cruise Control, Disc Brakes Front Ventilated, Disc Brakes Rear Solid, EBD (Electronic Brake force Distribution, Engine Immobiliser, Headlamps - Electric Level Adjustment, Independent Rear Suspension, Intermittent Wipers - Variable, Multi-function Control Screen, Multi-function Steering Wheel, Power Door Mirrors - Heated, Power Steering - Speed Sensitive, Power Windows - Front & Rear, Rear Head Rests, Remote Boot/Hatch Release, Remote Fuel Lid Release, Speed Dependant Volume Stereo, Tacho

xboy had the right idea - i think the mazda6 is a good car. according to drive.com.au, they start at $28,270 for the 2.3L manual. it goes all the way up to $43,250 for the top model!

but it depends if your dad wants a sporty car, does he need a big boot? how much driving does he do?

cos if i did a lot of driving and needed to carry stuff around, i'd prefer a medium auto sedan like the mazda6.

*edit: and if i was a hoon and wanted to guzzle petrol, i'd get a skyline.. oops too late!

Southo - He has a vectra at the moment and likes it. He was looking at the newer one, as seen in the pictures you provided but he doesn't like the look of them and they are $4,000 out of his price range.

Timmy G - Yes he does drive alot, to and from work and usually uses his car on the weekend.

Timmy G's right its a work car. No mods hehe :)

get the Magna AWD 3.5 executive with manual. trust me the executive 3.5 is better than the VRX 3.5. it develops tourqe and power at much lower revs. ive driven a 3.5 executive manual and they ****in pull hard. used to wheel spin in first by accelerator, 0-100 7.0 (dodgy mobile phone stopwatch but trip computer reakons it was 100km/h) only ran out of balls at 180km/h untill that it pulled harder than a holden HSV 185kw calais.

they werent called V8 killers for nothing :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...