Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, my car is an r33 skyline gtst 95 series one.

my problem is this, when i start the engine cold its all good and wants to go but when i drive around for about 10 mins and engine is warm it wants to stall and idol goes low to like 250-300, some times when i have it in park it goes to 700 and then when it hits drive or reverse it drops?

i just replaced the tps in it. what do i do now?

thanks alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206916-stalling-an-auto-problem/
Share on other sites

This may be a long shot, but my mate's car kept doing this, and it was because the throttle cable was too short, so there was too much air in the engine.

Although, I always thought if you could stall an auto, you're very talented.

Were u driving it normally, just accelorating, or did you out ur foot down and it revved up before kicking down? My mate's car did the latter. We all thought it was meant to do that, but he disagreed. He was right, he has to get a new one cos it shat itself. Might be worth looking into.

hey mate na i was driving it normally, and i just had the engine put in.

i bought it from slide proformance on here.

yeah like when i drive and lets say i go to 80ks and i drive normal i have to wait an extra 2 secs for it to kick up a gear on each one

Get your ECU read, may show a totally unrelated prob for your stalling.

For example my R33 auto kept on returning to "limp home mode" = selecting 3rd gear and running only in this gear at any speed.

My ECU was read and it showed a speedo fault, aprox 3 inches of electrical wiring had fried behind the dashboard!!!

So, yeah, get your ECU read and it may solve your prob without too much more time and fustration!!!

Regards, Evan

As EMZ said, probably not related to any of the above. Sounds like the line pressure to the auto is no good. Run an automatic transmission diagnostic - ive put a tutorial in the relevent section, and work back from there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...