Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think the E36 started off just as 3ltr, with 286hp, bout that. Then went to 3.2 ltr, making about 321hp. The yanks got some 240hp M3's, heheh :)

I think 2001 was the last year of E36, then the kick ass E46 took over.

Beautiful cars, no doubt about it. Not GTR standard in terms of speed/power. But are very nimble on their feet, so do handle really well but i guess the GTR would still have it with the 4WD, maybe if both were constant RWD, the M3 and GTR would be pretty neck and neck in the twisty deparment i would imagine. Maybe even an advantage to the M3.

No M3 will match with the GTR but not really designed to. More a luxury sports car. Full leather/electric goodies etc.

And modifying not as good as a GTR because they are pushing out about 235kw's (E36) from a 3.2 ltr Straight 6 N/A, they are pretty highly strung engines.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20716-e36-m3/#findComment-434336
Share on other sites

u looking at buying one? i'm sure there is more accurate info from the ppl on these forums, i've never driven either! :) just known ppl with E36/46 M3's, read lots of articles, watch Car shows etc, big BMW fan, M3 is known for it's handling ability

And of course ppl here have GTR's.

anyone driven both? E36 M3 and GTR (32, 33, 34)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20716-e36-m3/#findComment-434424
Share on other sites

My mate has an E46 M3, and believe me it is a crazy machine. I would not say it is a lesser car than a GTR, simply a different car. What you say about it being luxo may be true, but underneath it there is still a very hard sports car. Consider that both the E36 and E46 M3s were PCOTY at Motor.

In terms of driving, the M3 is exactly as people describe - instant throttle response, feelsome and talkative steering etc etc, and boy do they drift well in standard form! There may be nothing like the sound of a turbo spooling, wastegate opening and bellow of an RB26, but once you hear a 3.2 BMW M52 engine at 7000RPM the hairs on your back will stand up. Remember it is one of the most celebrated straight six engines in the world.

The E36 is a bit of the unloved child of the M3 family; it didn't have the fat guards of the E30 or E46, and was a bit of a sleeper in comparison. But the underlying mechanicals are basically the same as the E46 less the tricky diff and SMG update. OK, the motor is supposedly all new, but the basic architecture and design remain. I like the more Q-car look of the E36. And yes i would give my right leg to have either a GTR or M3 in my driveway.

Hope that dribble helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20716-e36-m3/#findComment-435633
Share on other sites

i think the evo is the 3.2. The difference between the US M3 and ours was we got the 6 throttle top-model and they got a single throttled detuned version, more like the 328i overbored to 3L... similar to the current 3.0 in the 330Ci and alike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20716-e36-m3/#findComment-436338
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...