Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Cooler Air Box

Pezhead

By Pezhead,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
Posted

Hey folks. I thought I'd post my work on my Oil Cooler installation. I decided a few months back that I'm not going to track my GTR until I have an oil cooler. I ended up getting a nice kit from UAS and up-sized the cooler to a 15 row. For anyone planning on doing this to their R33, the 15 row is the biggest that will fit in this area. I nearly took it back to downsize as it took me a while to figure out how it would fit.

I ended up placing mine right under the air intake behind the bumper as that was the only free space I have in my line. The BOV on the other side got in the way and I don't really want to move those. They're nicely hidden from sight :(

As in all projects it all took a lot of time. Measuring and planning made a lot of difference. But I'm really glad it did the planning as it has turned out really nicely. Making sure all the oil lines and box placement was going to work out was a little tricky. Making sure everything tucks up inside the mud guard without hardly any clearance was tricky. All up it took me 3 full weekends and a couple of weeknights. But I did get distracted along the way to do some custom fab and engine bay detailing.

Here is the build of the airbox (note that I had to get the angle of the airgap to 15 degrees as that is how I did the trig when I layed out the design):

post-16200-1203719151_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719168_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719179_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719191_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719201_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719219_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719229_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719243_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719254_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719267_thumb.jpg

I decided I wanted to reinforce the oil hose end so with some angle stock. Then I got a bit carried away with the mill work. I'm a backyard machinist so I have a desktop mill in the shop.

post-16200-1203719279_thumb.jpgpost-16200-1203719295_thumb.jpg

Mounting into the car looks like this:

post-16200-1203719304_thumb.jpgpost-16200-1203719313_thumb.jpg

I decided I didn't want the hot air to go directly into the engine bay intake so I built a full enclosure/top lid for the box.

post-16200-1203719304_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719313_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719325_thumb.jpg post-16200-1203719339_thumb.jpg

You can't see it too well in the pictures but the lid is angled so there is a large slot at the top that vents out the mud guard. I also just got too tired and didn't take pictures of the air ducting. I built a scoop that pulls all the air from the turn signal duct directly into the bottom end of the air box. That way it forces air through the cooler and out the mud guard. I also slit the mud guard but heated the plastic to an angle so that any water/mud flung into the hole will drain back to the outside of the guard rather than get flung inside. Them I put some mesh across the hole to keep out debris.

Outside of the machine work, the box build is something that anyone can do. It just took some tin snips, pop rivets and some planning.

Happy building folks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207319-oil-cooler-air-box/
Share on other sites
Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Mainly I didn't want the hot air going into the engine compartment as directly above the Oil Cooler are my Pod filters. I plan to build a CAI next so would be pointless to just fill it with hot air from this area.

It is really hard to see in the photos but I've got about 40mm of air gap out the back all the way across. I also opened the bottom up a lot for the air intake from the turn signal duct. That area is recessed and will draw in a lot of air and it is forced out the back. It pretty much only gets a work out at the track and I figure that at 100+ k's it will get plenty of flow.

Thanks guys.

post-16200-1203926575_thumb.jpg

Edited by Pezhead
  • 3 weeks later...
Omurru Veteran

Omurru

Posted
Posted

Nice setup, does seem like alot of effort although I do see where your coming from. I just put the same cooler in the same place in my car but mounted a little differently, will round up the pics I took of it. I have the same concern about the hot air from the cooler going up to the pods. I was going to seal up that hole and make up a box that uses the stock intake scoop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • Kinkstaah
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • Kinkstaah
      First time Skyline owner

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • Kinkstaah
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...