Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

hows this.. sorry to jump in... i have pfc and i decided to bock the stock bov to get flutter and now my gears are really clunky when changing!! like there is massive pressure!!

wtf? haha

hows this.. sorry to jump in... i have pfc and i decided to bock the stock bov to get flutter and now my gears are really clunky when changing!! like there is massive pressure!!

wtf? haha

I had this same problem, would crunch when going into third at high revs, ended up putting the gfb stealth thingy back on, which is pretty good only opens

when 5psi up! still get mild flutterterterterter

hows this.. sorry to jump in... i have pfc and i decided to bock the stock bov to get flutter and now my gears are really clunky when changing!! like there is massive pressure!!

wtf? haha

That would be because your experiencing afm reversion so its dumping fuel in and accelerating the car slightly.

Mine does it ever so slightly when coming off the throttle; the car does a couple of little lunges but its hardly noticable. With a stock sized inlet pipe it was quite severe and would stall quite often; with the 4" inlet pipe its fine. Never stalls but does let go some beaut flames if im giving it a little through the hills.

I'll be selling my GFB Stealth-FX 100% adjustable (plumb back / atmo or anywhere in between) bov made to suit RB25det only, for $200 soon. Excellent as new condition.

PM me if you want it; will need 10mins hand to take off my engine. Never stalled. Sounds good, as far as BOV's go

when the bov was in my mate's skyline it never stall...then tried on another mate's skyline and it didnt as well..so i guess there's something wrong wif my car..maybe i'll just put the blardy stock one back...and BURNN that SSQV!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...