Jump to content
SAU Community

Drag Driveline?

czy18e

By czy18e,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
If you want to do any street driving I would recommend going for a built jatco re4r03a as you still retain the overdrive but they are expensive compared to something like a C4.

The overdrive would be nice for street driving, granted, as would the bigger and stronger components of the RE403 over the Skyline 401 but like you said, they're much more expensive to build to take the power being suggested than an equivalent C4 or TH400 which are known quantities where spares are very readily available.

If it came to it you could get Mike from MV to put a JATCO together as he does some good work at reasonable prices but the standard Jap boxes are too hit and miss when you start leaning on them hard. I'd stick with something that you absolutely KNOW will do the job time after time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207633-drag-driveline/#findComment-3677753
Share on other sites
2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
cool thanks heaps...

ive heard the jatco's arent as strong???im not going anything nissan i have big plans for future and dont want to change but i still know next to nothing about auto's...

What about powerglide???

Any other choices or c4 is def the pic???

You could quite easily adapt a Turbo 400 or Powerglide to your engine but it's all about what you want to do with it. Having a third ratio is good for cars with narrow power bands. What does your car weight and how does it make its power?

The C4 is a relatively light and small (narrow) box as well so it's a good option in a drag car where every pound counts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207633-drag-driveline/#findComment-3683003
Share on other sites
2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
A built C4 is a strong box but dont under estimate the re4r03a as testing in the states indicates that these boxes will survive 1000hp and beyond.

The question is for how long, mate. Dom Rigoli had an RE401A in his 1000hp WRX for ages but how often was it pulled out and at least checked each meeting? It's a lighter car than ours too so who knows. 1000hp is one thing but in a 3300lb car it's a whole other story. C4's and Glides can hold that power in a 3500lb car all day so I know what I'd prefer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207633-drag-driveline/#findComment-3686510
Share on other sites
datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

Posted
Posted

The problem with the subaru re4r01a is that the output shaft is very small compared to say a skyline re4r01a and half the size of the re4r03a. Once they upgraded the output shaft size to powerglide spline size they had no more issues with breaking output shafts. I will be testing the limits of the re4r03a boxes soon. We have kept the shafts standard (other than heat treating) to see what weak links show up. These are larger than a v8 glide so any problems should be fixable using higher grade steel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207633-drag-driveline/#findComment-3686587
Share on other sites
exXU1 Mentor

exXU1

Posted
Posted
The question is for how long, mate. Dom Rigoli had an RE401A in his 1000hp WRX for ages but how often was it pulled out and at least checked each meeting? It's a lighter car than ours too so who knows. 1000hp is one thing but in a 3300lb car it's a whole other story. C4's and Glides can hold that power in a 3500lb car all day so I know what I'd prefer.

Lost them there Smiley

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207633-drag-driveline/#findComment-3709416
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

probably worth a mention that with the rather large turbo you are running and depending on how

tight the converter is you will probably have to give the big girl a sniff to persuade it to come up on the brake. A small dry shot will do it, something like 50hp. Unless you want to be on the start line staaling it up while the other car crosses the finish line like most VLs you see

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207633-drag-driveline/#findComment-3810001
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...