Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i just got cam gears for my rb20det just wondering what their best dialed in on for std cams?

yes i know i should get it dynoed but if some one has all ready done this they can tell me their results

mods

full 3" zorst

FMIC

boxed pod with extra cold air feed

rb25 turbo

fuel pump

and now cam gears

i will be getting these soon

afm

remap

and injectors

THANKS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207872-rb20-with-cam-gears/
Share on other sites

He meant that all cars respond to different cam gear settings differently...even with standard cams...so tuning IS STILL REQUIRED to get some quantitative results...so your mistake there...

That said...i've read up alot about these before i had mine done and in general most guys ended up with between +1 to +3 advance on INLET and -2 to -6 retard on EXHAUST...thats a starting range...the rest is up to you...

haha soft spot aye? anyway i get mine tuned tmmrw so let you know on weds when i get it back

lol not really hey just in my eyes std will be roughty the same every time.

how did u go with yours? what did u gain? and whered did you gain power?

Edited by yogibear
get it tmmrw now (hoping), timing belt and water pump changed. true, but still you will need it tuned. i doubt any gains in the top end will happen, at most might get a little extra midrange? any who tell you when i get it

Did you end up getting these fitted and tuned? interested in results...

  • 3 months later...

Heard from a few tuners the best results on RB20s are seen at IN + 3 and EX - 6 but that being said, all motors are different and react differently

I just had my car on the dyno over the weekend and we ended up advancing the EX side as it liked it better and picked up a bit more power through the midrange and top end, when he retarded the exhaust side it lost a whole heap of power

I'd probably suggest you let a tuner do it just so they can recheck timing and making sure its not pining etc

Heard from a few tuners the best results on RB20s are seen at IN + 3 and EX - 6 but that being said, all motors are different and react differently

I just had my car on the dyno over the weekend and we ended up advancing the EX side as it liked it better and picked up a bit more power through the midrange and top end, when he retarded the exhaust side it lost a whole heap of power

I'd probably suggest you let a tuner do it just so they can recheck timing and making sure its not pining etc

but is the +3 and -6 of the crank ? or is it of the cams?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
×
×
  • Create New...