Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what are the benefits of retaining the VCT? and is it as simple as removing that section of the gtr plenuming and welding the gts-t part on?

only benefit i see is cost. i.e it costs a fair amount to change to a solid lifter/cam setup. but then you have a huge selection of cams to chose from

i dont really want to go explaining exactly what needs to be done on the open forum, however purchasers will be told exactly what to do and whats needed

only benefit i see is cost. i.e it costs a fair amount to change to a solid lifter/cam setup. but then you have a huge selection of cams to chose from

i dont really want to go explaining exactly what needs to be done on the open forum, however purchasers will be told exactly what to do and whats needed

thanks for the reply :thumbsup:

i understand not wanting to make everything public :D

If my j-spec supplier doesn't work out i will be getting in contact with you for sure ;)

again thanks for all the helpfully reply :)

Edited by [Michael]
Wouldnt recomend the rb26 set up on a 20 head.

Why? Not enough airflow?

Shane and I have spoken a bit about making one for the 20..... Im hoping this isnt an exercise in money wasting....

Edited by R31 drift pig

That's right, not enough airflow for it to make decent response and stumbling on throttle openings. The velocities of the air are what is important. But for the cost, just setup a custom 6tb intake.

Call Wayne at Meridian Motorsport in Melbourne. He can either organise the setup or put you in touch with someone who can.

That's right, not enough airflow for it to make decent response and stumbling on throttle openings. The velocities of the air are what is important. But for the cost, just setup a custom 6tb intake.

why is there not enough air flow? cause the 20 heads have smaller ports?

Been lurking for a bit, but now I am finally in the position to get some wk done to the car. I am very interested in the ITB conversion for my (RB25) RB30DET. Is there any (signiciant) difference in ITB designs throughout the RB26 year models that I should be looking for? I have done a search, but came up empty handed.

I already have the Greddy intake with the Q45 TB, but on my '77 280Z that manifold angles out too far and for the most part hits the fender. The GTR manifold would pretty much perfectly line up with the openings in the rad support to the FMIC. Plus the extra throttle response wouldn't suck either...

through i give an update on my situation.

After searching long and hard i finally found a brand new Blitz Kit :P (found on yahoo auction) price was too good to pass up :(

my gtr plenum comes this week and hopfully the blitz kit will be here within 5-6days. i put some pics up of the kit once it arrive

I have done the sums many times for many people, no matter how I work it it ALWAYS works out cheaper to sell the RB25 cylinder head and excessories and buy an RB26 cylinder head. By the time you do the inlet manifiold, cams (RB26 cams are always cheaper), pulleys, bypass the VVT, lifters, valve springs, valves and then injectors (top feed are always cheaper), the fuel rail (the standard RB26 rail is good for over 650 bhp) etc etc.

Then you have the fact that the end result (of a hybrid RB25 cylinder head) is never as good a full RB26 top end.

Cheers

Gary

I havent looked at the 26 plenums in detail... but couldn't you just plane off say 5mm from the first components that bolt to the head (do the throttles bolt directly up to the head on a 26?? I had a feeling they have a small manifold piece between the head and throts...), and get a 25 flange laser cut out of ally, and weld onto the planed off area? That would seem like the most simple, and cheapest method to me... mind you, i haven't looked at the 26 and 25 inlets in detail...

Laser cutting ally is cheap as... hell, take the laser cutters a new gasket for a 25 and they'll be able to cut you an ally flange piece of piss... (ie. used as the stencil)... it might cost you what... $100-150? maybe less (for the flange)... welding it would be the more expensive part, but even that should only cost a couple hundred at most... (welding + grinding the inside ports clean)

Maybe im heading off on the wrong track here, but I just haven't had time to look at the two inlets in detail...

I have done the sums many times for many people, no matter how I work it it ALWAYS works out cheaper to sell the RB25 cylinder head and excessories and buy an RB26 cylinder head.

Cheers

Gary

You mean like this??

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-E-t207769.html

I havent looked at the 26 plenums in detail... but couldn't you just plane off say 5mm from the first components that bolt to the head (do the throttles bolt directly up to the head on a 26?? I had a feeling they have a small manifold piece between the head and throts...), and get a 25 flange laser cut out of ally, and weld onto the planed off area? That would seem like the most simple, and cheapest method to me... mind you, i haven't looked at the 26 and 25 inlets in detail...

Laser cutting ally is cheap as... hell, take the laser cutters a new gasket for a 25 and they'll be able to cut you an ally flange piece of piss... (ie. used as the stencil)... it might cost you what... $100-150? maybe less (for the flange)... welding it would be the more expensive part, but even that should only cost a couple hundred at most... (welding + grinding the inside ports clean)

Maybe im heading off on the wrong track here, but I just haven't had time to look at the two inlets in detail...

I'm going single throttle body with the GTR plenum welded to stock runners, hopefully it turns out alright :down:

That's a head setup worth grabbing. 1800 with freight say. A little skim and lap the valves and bingo, bolt right on. Covers and all. Might just grab it myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...