Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

i recently put a gt3540 with internal waste gate on my r34. the prob im having is it still makes boost after the waste gate has opened, i have moved away form the aftermarket actuator sold with the turbo as its spring too heavy.

i have since made up a solid braket and mounted my standard r34 wastegate actuator and i can feel the actuator (and see Via boost gauge) open up just before 10psi, but then as the revs increase to 4000rpm and higher the boost also creeps higher and im talking a big increase to like 20psi with the waste gate open.

so fare i have tried using tie wire and tying the wastegate flap open, take it for a test drive and i would have thought it would make next to NO boost although through the higher gears form 3rd anyway the boost is at 0psi till i get to about 3500rpm then it creeps up to 5psi at around 4000rpm and if i countinue to push the revs higher it reachs about 8-9 psi at 6-7000rpm. ALL THIS WITH THE WASTE GATE FULLY OPEN!!!

can anyone shed some light for me? i want to clear this problem up before i take the car into get tuned.

i should also make it clear that there is no restrictions in the exhaust so there should be no back pressure it is a full 3'' exhuast from the turbo and only one straight through cannon muffler.

and the problem cant be with the boost controller because if i take the actuator pressure hose straight after the compressor cover directly to the wastegate actuator...(meaning that if the actuator is rated at 14.7psi it should open at that pressure exactly. no boost controller to interferr with the pressure sigal.

any helpful surgestions appreciated guys

thanks

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208115-gt3540iw-over-boosting/
Share on other sites

I read in a recent Zoom or HPI an article by Martin Donnon discussing how over boosting is a significant issue for internal gate turbos when you put a free flowing exhaust on and reduce back pressure significantly. Basically the internal wastegate is not free flowing enough to allow sufficient exhaust to bypass the turbine (ie with a free flowing exhaust, a component of the exhaust finds it easier to keep going through the turbine rather than going through a restrictive wastegate).

If you're making boost with the wastegate fully open then the wastegate is clearly not able to flow enough exhaust.

The answer in the magazine was some trimming around the wastegate port and increase the size of the flap.

If I remember I'll have a look tonight to find the article.

A couple of important things to know .

Firstly what turbine housing is on it (please say Garrett GT35 IW) and in what A/R ratio .

I wouldn't think too many waste gate systems would let you run your engine at full load to the redline and not make any boost at all . To do so would require enough valve area to pass all of the exhaust gas out of the engine - at any load and RPM and not spin up the turbine .

Cheers A .

BTW make sure the waste gate valve is opening up completly and not being restricted by the dump pipe .

Edited by discopotato03
A couple of important things to know .

Firstly what turbine housing is on it (please say Garrett GT35 IW) and in what A/R ratio .

I wouldn't think too many waste gate systems would let you run your engine at full load to the redline and not make any boost at all . To do so would require enough valve area to pass all of the exhaust gas out of the engine - at any load and RPM and not spin up the turbine .

Cheers A .

BTW make sure the waste gate valve is opening up completly and not being restricted by the dump pipe .

its a gt3540 IW with .63 rear and .7 front

and the wastegate valve is def opening fully, its not restricted by the dump pipe. that was the first thing i checked.

thanks

Justin

The .82 IW GT35's don't creep on the 25t's; as for .63 thats a little bit of an unknown.

What sort of dump do you have? Is it a split or a bell mouth?

Bell mouths are best for IW's UNLESS you match the opening of the dump pipe to that of the back of the turbo.

When the flapper opens it reduces the opening area of the dump pipes wastegate section; this is where you run in to issues if you simply slap in a 2" pipe for the wastegate and hope for the best.

The .82 IW GT35's don't creep on the 25t's; as for .63 thats a little bit of an unknown.

What sort of dump do you have? Is it a split or a bell mouth?

Bell mouths are best for IW's UNLESS you match the opening of the dump pipe to that of the back of the turbo.

When the flapper opens it reduces the opening area of the dump pipes wastegate section; this is where you run in to issues if you simply slap in a 2" pipe for the wastegate and hope for the best.

its a split dump pipe. so i guess i can weld in a larger wategate pipe section. i can give it a go.

thanks

Justin

can you show us a pick of your current dump pipe?

ive got a gt3582r-iw which is the correct name for your turbo.

and ive had it low mounted and now highmounted.

never had any issues with creep and my dump pipes have all been a split design that i make myself from 316 stainless.

Some would say that a 0.63 A/R is a little small for a GT3582R given the 68mm turbine and 82mm compressor .

Sorry to sound negative but I think I'd have gone for a GT3076R and a 0.82 A/R IW turbine housing . IMO the trouble with small turbine housings on bigish turbos is they limit the gas flow through the hot side once it all gets going .

Some people in the US have made the best of that situation by fitting port shrouded T04S compressor covers but you also have to be careful to get one that actually works . I think Precision Turbo (PTE) in the US does one that seems to work .

Cheers A .

What ECU are you running man? You said its going to get tuned soon, so its running on a stock ECU? Or aftermarket? My turbo used to run on stock ECU and would overboost like a bitch due to the ECU retarding the timing. Microtech went in, no more overboosting :thumbsup:

can you show us a pick of your current dump pipe?

ive got a gt3582r-iw which is the correct name for your turbo.

and ive had it low mounted and now highmounted.

never had any issues with creep and my dump pipes have all been a split design that i make myself from 316 stainless.

dangerman

i was hoping you would reply to this thread as i have seen your other threads on the same turbo.

yeah will post a pic up tyomorrow of the dump pipe. why is the correct name for this turbo a gt3582r-iw? i thought it was gt3540r-iw? is the part number different cause of the smaller turbine housing?

thanks

Juatin

What ECU are you running man? You said its going to get tuned soon, so its running on a stock ECU? Or aftermarket? My turbo used to run on stock ECU and would overboost like a bitch due to the ECU retarding the timing. Microtech went in, no more overboosting :yes:

its running an apexi powerfc. and yeah getting it tuned very soon just want to sort out this prob first cause i cant really get much time off work. and dont want to take it to get tuned only to have them say "cant tune it yet, something else must be done first"

thanks

Justin

its running an apexi powerfc. and yeah getting it tuned very soon just want to sort out this prob first cause i cant really get much time off work. and dont want to take it to get tuned only to have them say "cant tune it yet, something else must be done first"

thanks

Justin

Oh ok fair enough, not the same problem i had then. Sounds like it would have to be the dump pipe or the internal wastegate to blame then.

The smaller the rear housing the more exhaust gas the wastegate must be able to pass.

9-10psi with the flapper wired open isn't too bad.

With the stock rb20det turbo on the 3ltr and wastegate wired open with a bell mouth dump I was seeing 6.5psi.

The difference is the boost level would peak then go flat across the rev range.

IF yours continues to rise as rpm rises right until rev cut with the gate wired open then there is a creep issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...