Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have a little question i hope someone can answer for me! regarding cold air boxes and CAI's etc so here we go..

If your like me and dont like the return pipe over the radiator etc, and want to keep the stock piping, then your CAI feed holes are well and truly plugged up already.

So in a S2 R33, where would i get a CAI feed from? The stock snorkel is an option if im clever enough to make something up, but the way i see it is the stock airbox is sealed right, so its acually SUCKING the air through the snorkel, its not actually being fed/rammed, thus because the bonnet closes over it and it looses its direct feed to the outside air.

In the case of a home built un-sealed CAB then the snorkel becomes useless, because it cannot have air rammed into it while driving. Thus returning to the problem of the hot air being drawn in from under the wall of the CAB.

Im at a loss :rofl: Please enlighten me!

My old Integra Type , i had the pod in the bumper, and the intake pipe was ice cold right to the throttle body regardless of driving conditons too. Wish i could do this!

Your best option for colder air induction would be to open up a hole right under your pod and grab a pipe that bends out to your front bar.

I just opened up my hole to a 100mm and directed a 125mm pipe straight to my hole in the front bar, so it rams cold air straight in my box packed and ready for the pod to suck up. If you'd like, i could take some pics of how i did it to give you a better idea?

Sure that would be great if its not to much hassle!

I was just trying to avoid the idea of having to cut any part of the car. But at the moment my Apexi Pod just sucks in pure oven temeratures ha. Seems to go all right tho, the R34 SMIC is red hot after a good "spirited" drive, so its doing its job.

i found the same thing with the snorkel. air isnt forced in, but rather sucked in. so the boxed pod using the factory snorkel isnt going to work too well. i realised this after i got my hands on a snorkel and saw how tucked away it is from any forced airflow.

i also noticed my r34smic was getting way too hot after some decent boosting. thats why i changed to a front mount. you really dont want it to be getting that stupidly hot, coz then it wont be cooling too well.

Edited by Munkyb0y

hey gotrice,

I have found with my cai and heatsheild that there is a good amount of cold air going into the engine, and I am sure that gts432 could back that up with his setup... i spoze you could say with a custom made cai.... the air isn't forced into the heatsheild as such, more so guided, so that the pod then has cool air to suck in that is around it in the heatsheild.... I don't believe "ramming" air into the intake would make any considerable difference anyway.. the intake can only take so much... if you want to look at a full cai setup however, start to finish... check the tut i made in the main tut page...

Regards,

Adam

  • 5 months later...

The problem I had, was after I installed my FMIC the stock air box was sucking the air straight from the hot engine because the factory snorkel didn't fit with them pipes in the way, so I got a pod.

I didn't have much room for securing the pod, so if the cops saw it they give me a sticker. So I wanted to get a Cold airbox but they were $250+ for one that might not even fit + they looked like shit.

post-47680-1222162624_thumb.jpg

post-47680-1222162637_thumb.jpg

post-47680-1222162648_thumb.jpg

post-47680-1222162658_thumb.jpg

I made it outa galvanized iron, primed it, Finished it with 'VHT Wrinkle paint' baked in the oven, 'K+H underbody deadner' underneath for sound proofing and Clark rubber "pinchweld" around the edges.

6 month from the dead! LOL.

So anyway i now have a Blitz LM front mount, and still have the same problem with having nowhere to draw cold air from.

Might have to get it up on the hoist and see if theres any way of doing this.

Yeah, I didn't want to make a new thread.

My Intercooler gave me a hole to utilize under the pod because the Intercooler only uses one of the two factory holes. I'll get some of the drainage PVC off the back of the ute, stick it in the whole, seal it up, then put a 90 degree bend on it and put a L.I.T. on that to act as an air scoop. then paint it. Should cost about $7 all up, lol

And how long does it take to make one?

Im not to handy with fabricating stuff but im a quick learner.

And one quick question, my Pod filter and Intake pipe dont fully reach the right hand side of my Engine bay. So basically the box is either going to be a little bit bigger to reach the Pod or i will need to extend the intake pipe. And if i need to extend it, how will i go about doing that ?

One more thing, i want to funnel air from the front bar to the CAI box. I know i will need piping but what sort of funnel will i need and how will i mount it?

MRXTCZ

I'm jealous of all your airboxes.. they look awesome.

I'm hoping someone would post some cad drawings or scan in the dimensions of the cutouts to make a template.. that'd make it easier for all us diy'ers.

easy mate.. take multiple scans and mark out with a sticky tape or pen numbers from 1-10 (at like 1-2cm intervals), then stitch it all together in photoshop. I'll help you with the stitching if you like, and can even do up a 3d cad/sketchup model so everyone can benefit from it :)

I scanned in my entire from east bear lip that way using an A4 scanner :banana:

Woahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! thats full technical haha.

Well if i end up making up a template of the RB25DE Neo CAI Box i will definately PM you and we'll work on it.

Just Jap, i just called Just Jap and its $149 for the R34 one.

It comes in black. Hopefully it fits fine :banana:

MRXTCZ

Took me about 2 hours to design and fabricate,

Mind you I've got a fair bit of experience with sheet metal and spray paint. Plus I had access to a large sheet metal bender

OR just take a good template and your car to a sheet metal place and they'll probably cut it out and bend it for you for a carton of piss.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...