Jump to content
SAU Community

Finally My Car Is Ready

writeoff

By writeoff,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

Hey Dave, I noticed you had a bit of a boost spike there early that almost hit 20psi.

Also tuned on a ramp rate of 200 which is good for numbers but how about real life on the street ie. pushing it hard uphill?

Jeff at Speedlab runs ramp rates of about 150 which may show around 10kw less on the print out but much safer on the street.

Just keep an eye on the detonation bud.

That being the case....my guess of 330 to 340 wasn't too far off.........sorry Darren, you may have to share that prize with me :thumbsup:

writeoff Mentor

writeoff

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Hey Dave, I noticed you had a bit of a boost spike there early that almost hit 20psi.

Yeah I saw that. I was checking it against my old dyno sheets when the HKS EVC was working. The sheets below go from right (oldest) to left (just prior to blowing engine)

The same early spike and then drop off occurs on the low boost setting on an earlier dyno run as well. You can see it on the second sheet below dated 12.4.06. The high boost (blue line) is set at 17psi and trails off to 16psi where as the low boost setting (red line) spikes initially to 12psi and then drops off to 9psi. Interesting.

post-19208-1204816798_thumb.jpg

post-19208-1204816807_thumb.jpg

post-19208-1204817302_thumb.jpg

Edited by writeoff
dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted

might pay to take your car to a different tuner just for a check up as martin is known for making grenades.

just be carefull is what im saying.

the run isnt in shoot 6f and some of the other settings look a little funny so just be aware that his not as good as he thinks he is.

at the end of the day he doesnt have to pay for your motor so what does he care.

also that boost spike is a concern.

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
might pay to take your car to a different tuner just for a check up as martin is known for making grenades.

just be carefull is what im saying.

the run isnt in shoot 6f and some of the other settings look a little funny so just be aware that his not as good as he thinks he is.

at the end of the day he doesnt have to pay for your motor so what does he care.

also that boost spike is a concern.

Yeah I think Martin is probably one of the best tuners in the country but his biggest issue from what I'm hearing from many that have seen him recently is that he doesn't spend enough time on the tune (unless you know him well).

I'm not inferring that this is what Martin does but in general it's not good enough to do a run on the dyno then go back and tune only the ghost part of the map, you need to tune the whole map (fuel & timing) because on the street the load and temperatures vary which will always put you into a different part of the maps.

Have a look at the ramp rate that Shaun at Boostworks ran on Sat (150), figures may not look as high as some people would've liked but at least his ramp rate equates to real life on the street moreso than a rate of 200.

Just because your car doesn't detonate on the dyno does not mean it won't on the street.

HOSTILE Mentor

HOSTILE

Posted
Posted (edited)

David... nice numbers there for sure.... I would suggest if you want another tune to see John Keen at Southern Hi-Tech dyno. He does good work.

Enjoy your newfound power mate!

Good advice from sled and the boys above too.... the last thing you want after the long wait is a grenade resulting in another one!!!

Edited by HOSTILE
SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

Another thing I liked about Shaun at Boostworks was that he monitored temperature, timing (detonation) and fuel supply very closely on every run.

Proof of that was that with some cars he immediately back off when it leaned out or started to detonate.

I've stood next to my car with one tuner just north east of town who revved the crap out of my car then said, gee I got abit of pinging there :) WELL WHY DID YOU CONTINUE TO REV IT THEN!!! and sometimes 2 or 3 times after he realized that it was either detonating or running out of fuel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
×
×
  • Create New...