Jump to content
SAU Community

3071r, Cams, Cam Gears - Results Now Posted

Simon-S14

By Simon-S14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i still cant get over how fast it is now... if i had shit tyres on the back... the thing would be downright dangerous. even with really good tyres on it atm, at 4500 rpm in 4th it starts to squirm at the rear lol.

going to be fun drifting it now :D

juggernaut1 Proficient

juggernaut1

Posted
Posted
Just to clarify, the turbo is the cropped version, rb25 is a 100K km stock motor which has had plenty of thrashing from me with it, perfect health so far, stock intake manifold stock exhaust manifold also.

Just to confirm aren't you running some sort of GCG housing on the cropped 3071R or am I mistaken. Good result nevertheless.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Nice result.

Out of interest, was it the inlet or exhaust that had the biggest effect on the curve? And what did adjusting the exhaust side do to the overall shape (seeing as i only have an adjustable exhaust wheel and retain vct)?

i forgot to reply to this. We tried Advancing the exhaust gear also, according to what revs210 said above thought we would give it a go, and it lost a lot of power everywhere, so we then set to zero, and it was the same as the stock gear (obviously) so knew we were heading in the right track, then retarded the exhaust cam by a few degrees, made power, then settled on 1 degree and it gained a bit more, then once we started advancing the intake cam thats where bigger gains started happening.

We really ran out of time, so i reckon theres more in it by retarding the exhaust cam some more, its just that it takes 10-15 mins each time to get to the exhaust cam gear, as opposed to 5 mins for the intake.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just to confirm aren't you running some sort of GCG housing on the cropped 3071R or am I mistaken. Good result nevertheless.

yeah mate, GCG supplied the turbo, its a cropped t3 version with a GCG cast copy of the op6 housing and its a .71 A/R bolts up to RB flanges etc. seems to work really really well!

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

Good to see you had a go at the advancing of the exhaust cam, at least in the interest of science we have some data to help others out with the install of a similar setup. I regret not taking more notes with the cams I have done in the past, especially as I am going to be dropping in some more to the GTR I have now.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

It appears tighe use the 0.006 lift to name their cams.

708c - 254 duration 8.5mm lift

805c - 261 duration 8.8mm lift

806c - 264 duration *not 100% sure unable to find the data*

brup brup brup. :)

Whats the idle set at simon?

  • 1 month later...
turbomad Community Regular

turbomad

Posted
Posted
yeah mate, GCG supplied the turbo, its a cropped t3 version with a GCG cast copy of the op6 housing and its a .71 A/R bolts up to RB flanges etc. seems to work really really well!

I was looking at one of these, u had trouble keeping the boost below 20psi originally, did u fix the problem, was it to do with the .71 a/r?

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no it was the gate, the hole was too small IMO so i bored it out, modded the flapper so it sealed better and bored out the screamer pipe (a bell mouth dump would prob have better boost control) and boost then dropped to 16 psi (its a 16 psi acuator) use the boost controller to bring it on harder and at around 17 psi and it was sweet.

i highly doubt they will run under a bar tho... the gate just wont flow enough.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

240rwkw 'maybe' 250rwkw if your lucky with simply bolting a highflow on.

260rwkw with cams from the highflow.

Go the GT3071 and have the w/g ported from the word go and your looking at potentially more.

Highflow option in my opinion is just crap. 240-250rwkw is slow; if you don't think it is then give it 3 days and it will be.

For a car to consistently feel reasonably quick you really do need 280rwkw odd.

Go with simons setup you really cannot go wrong. Skimp a couple hundred and go the highflow and your looking at disappointment.

I've been for a spin in Simons and it is very impressive; to myself its not laggy; has awesome mid range and top end; and I hate lag. :)

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

haha thanks cubes.

Its a pretty simple fit, the 4 studs need to be changed on the manifold to allow the spacer to fit, then custom oil and water lines and a silicon bend for the outlet and inlets... all pretty straight forward stuff tho.

cubes is right about 240 rwkw being slow tho... i have driven a few 240 rwkw r33's and they just dont feel fast at all... if you havent had a high powered car before then sure it will be fast for a while.. but you get used to it.

with mine.. it still scares me :) esp on a cold cold night in the hills i cannot floor it at all at it justs gains way too much speed too soon :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...