Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

watched a performance dvd the other week and there was a performance/race car on it that had a large intercooler in the back with twin thermo/cooling fans pulling air through intercooler.

i was thinking it is a good idea because it will always have cool air flowing through it.

when using fmic setup air gets forced into fmic while in motion, but if front mount has cooling fan pulling air through it would make intercooler more effective and efficiant...

saying all this if this is right, would putting a fan behind my fmic (pulling) create more of a gain? especially at standstill when intercooler is not getting air forced into it.

any info will be great or if anyone else has any other ideas will be a bonus.

4drftn

yeah sh@un is right, no gains to be had

it was probably a radiator/cooler combo at the rear because they'd run out of room at the front, the fans were probably just to push air through because it'd be lacking the wind you get from the front of the car

spend a little time making some foam air guides (or a nice metal guide if you have the skills with the material) for between the intercooler and radiator so the air doesn't 'spill' making the standard fan setup work more efficiently.

sorry i may have not explained myself well, but i am already running viscous fan+12inch cooling fan infont of my radiator pushing air into it...

now... what im actually trying to find out is benifits from having a pulling fan on the back of an intercooler or fmic, in other words trying to get more air and cooler air into intercooler to maybe produce more power etc.

sorry for the confusion

4drftn

i have seen this done, it was set up to come on when the intake temps go up to a certain temp, only really usefull and low speeds or stopped when there is not enough air flow over the fmic.

Id start with measuring your actual intake temps, take a common, do some plots over time, otherwise your just faping into a carrot cake.

Water spray while standstill i find isn't soo effective (well not as much as Id want it to be) The water itself isn't cooling the IC, its the latent heat thats absorbed in the state change from liquid to gas (evaporation) Hence, without the air moving over it, kinda hindered.

Thermos and a water setup could work well me thinks, if you really need to prevent heat soak while standstill.

If state change heat absorption is your game, iv always been interested in those C02 IC sprayers. C02 is dirt cheap, and in 30s can have a ice covered IC when dead still. I had almost ordered one, but a change meant it wouldn't work with my setup.

Thinking aloud :/

EDIT: After getting some base figures, first try air guides first as mentioned - a must.

Edited by GeeTR

When the intercooler is working hardest is when you're in motion- meaning there's plenty of airflow already over the cooler.

water-->air intercooler would be the best upgrade, esp. for heatsoak issues, but it's not exactly a simple bolt-on upgrade like a regular fmic.

Airguides ftw, maximise airflow to the cooler. In the meantime you might want to put a fan behind the fmic and do some tests with a thermometer-type tool and see if the fan makes a difference to charge temps and cooler heatsoak temps.

Air -> Water IC's (what i think you meant) still needs a heat exchanger (rad like)

People use thermos on those heat exchangers... thermos on a Air -> Air should work just well maybe?

Try it, let us know :/

Edited by GeeTR

i think i most definatly will give it a go... aswell as air guides for maximum gain. does anyone have any pictures of an airguide they have customly made for there setup?

also how would i go about measuring the air intake temp/amount? will it be in ECU data?, i have a microtech LT-8 ECU, should i be able to access that sort of info?

cheers

Always wondered if 12 volt peltiers would be the go. Peltier runs on electricity gets hot one side and very cold other side smaller ones can cool cpu in computer so i imagine larger ones could be utilised in aiding to cool an fmic? just a thought

The short answer to this is : don't waste your time.

A properly ducted intercooler will take advantage of the high pressure built up at the front of the car when travelling at any reasonable speed.

This pressure build up will be more than any fan is capable of providing.

Hence installing such a fan is a waste of time.

But:

If your car is a GT-R it already has a fan installed to push air through the radiator. You can hear it click on when the car is sat idling on a hot day.

It is far, far easier to plumb in some water misting to spray the intercooler when the inlet temps go above a certain threshold. Why don't you look into that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...