Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So anyways....thought i had a slow leak, turned out it was a crack in my rim.

Getting the rim fixed, but noticed that the camber wear on my tyre is so much that it it's now not exactly legal. Now given that my rim repair is going to be around $130, and I'm broke, i just need the tyre put back on for the next two weeks til i get paid and can think about replacing the tyre (which has about 11mm of tread everywhere except the inside 15mm of the tyre).

So does anyone know of a smaller tyre place close to the city that would just put the tyre back on for me? Or do you think a normal tyre place would put it back on for me if i said i was just taking it to the track or something?

dodgey i know, but i really can't afford new tyres at the moment!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210201-tyre-fitting-for-not-so-legal-tyres/
Share on other sites

You could try taking the wheel and tyre in separately and asking them to fit it, I dunno whether they'd make you sign a disclaimer or something but they might do it. I've had tyres fitted before that were going to the track on the back of a drift car, I think they just noted on the invoice that the tyres were not legal for street use or something like that. You'll still have an illegal/defectable tyre and a cracked rim though, so it's not ideal, and certainly not something I'd do myself.

A better option would be to try to find someone who will loan you a rim/tyre or a pair/set (especially if the sizes are different) that's legal - that way you'll have some grip, and won't have insurance hassles should you run into someone or crash. What size do you have?

Use a tyre lever and squeeze it back on. Theyre just like a bike tyre but tougher

Use a peice of timber to brace against so u dont destroy your rim

Or just buy a 30$ retread or even chuck your spare on

hmm, well, i'm getting the crack in the rim repaired, so that should be an issue - but like i said, that's gonna cost around $130 i'm guessing, and at the moment (not for another 2 weeks at least), i don't have spare cash for tyres.

yeah i should have rotated the tyres at some stage - didn't realise i had that much camber on the front though :blink: and i can only rotate the fronts as i've got 8.5"s on the front and 9.5"s on the rear.

I think i'll just take the other rim off the front - put the two stockers on the front - go to the tyre shop (when i get my cracked rim fixed) and ask them to rotate the two as they are spares or for the track or something - that way they won't be fitting them to the car and they can write whatever they want on the invoice.

THEN.... i'll go buy some cheap 2nd hand tyres or something like the cheapskate that i am :D

oh and size... i'll have to get back to you, i don't even know off hand :blink:

i bought my rims with the stretched rubber already on them and I'm not really partial to it - get way to much understeer at times (which is probably largely due to my completely stock (i.e. f*cken sloppy) suspension.

So you got stock rims with legal tyres on them?

Don't mean to sound stupid, but why not just leave them on the car for 2 weeks. In that 2 weeks you could get a defect, crash the car and have void insurance, etc etc.

So you got stock rims with legal tyres on them?

Don't mean to sound stupid, but why not just leave them on the car for 2 weeks. In that 2 weeks you could get a defect, crash the car and have void insurance, etc etc.

ummm, i think that's what i meant when i said "think i'll just take the other rim off the front - put the two stockers on the front"...

^^ um, i'm not sure how you figure that. i started the thread as a couple of tyre places i went to didn't want to fit non-legal rubber to a rim while it's not on the car, so i was asking for any knowledge of places that would - for example if they didn't mind fitting non-legal rubber if it was for drfit/track. but your input has been super-valuable thus far :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...