Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya all,

For last week or so, i been gettin knock readings on my SAFC as high as 40-60... I ignore it figuring its only engine noise or something in drivetrain rocking as it would only get those figures once in a while.

This morning it knock to 72 and 90 !!! I was Freak out and didnt want to hurt my engine no more, this figures were hitting at approx 5500-6000rpm and i backed off.

So i book it in straight away to get a power run and air/fuel figures.

My car is following:

S1.5 R33 Skyline

Boost 10psi

Greddy Front Mount

3" Catback exhaust

SAFCII (untuned)

Copper plugs at 0.8mm gap

Pod filter and Shield

Had around 5 runs on the dyno :

First run was 220wHp @ 5000rpm - Tuner didnt want to push it as he heard knock in his knock ear phones things

2nd run was 218wHP @ 5200rpm - He tried to give it more fuel via the SAFCII i had ..+10% settings from 5500rp, onwards ( it was untune and stock settings )

3rd run was 210wHP @ 5000rpm - It didnt make much difference.. still ping and running crazy lean figures

He did One last run - And MY god was it Lean, i was holding onto my balls, like dont BLOW this f$#ker!!!

It pulled 247.4whp (180wkw) @ 6550rpm But with lean ratio of 13.0:1 !!!!

imgzu7.jpg

I dont know wats wrong with my car, i thought it was Rich and Retard.. BUT Obviously it not RUNNING Rich!

I think its the Fuel pump, and suggetions ???

Any info would be helpful guys!!!

Edited by lilhaulerz

Tru that.. Wonder why he didnt check it...

Im prob going get one of those Walbro from Slide

Im only planning to run stock turbo, 10psi and safc..

So the Walbro should be fine...

Has anyone else ever had this problem ?

i see other ppls charts running lean but its a progressive line from rich to lean... Mine just JUMPS at 5500rpm.. why ?

walbro is more than adequate for the stock turbo, another thing you can do is bypass the fpcm (fuel pump control module) alters fuel pump voltage for different engine loads, by attaching the fuel pumps earth lead straight to ground, so the pump gets max possible voltage all the time. And if you want to take it another step further rewire the pump with a new relay and higher gauge wire straight from the battery (not really necessary though)

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

your better off not altering the wiring if its a street car, or your pump will be running 100% all the time, and this sucks for two reasons:

1- the noise! especially at idle when there is nothing to drown it out

2- the fuel will get hot, you pump so much through but it all comes back to the tank, then goes through the pump again... there are a few old threads about the " hot fuel " problems.

i would get a nismo/tomei pump too, as they are sooooooo easy to put in compared to walboro or bosch and are quieter too in my experience

your better off not altering the wiring if its a street car, or your pump will be running 100% all the time

Wrong, if done correctly with a relay, fuel pump turns on and off as per normal.

Bearing in mind that fuel pump is always running while car is running, hot fuel problems are usually cause by overkilling the fuel pump flow.

Nismo pump is a very good option as it is plug and play... but bear in mind the Nismo pump is a Bosch 023 pump.

Pump noise is either because it external mount, or incorrectly installed, or both.

Bosch is OEM for a great number of manufacturers.

But is it required to mod the wiring for my mods i have ?

SAFC II ( will be tuned after pump installed )

Catback 3" ( dump pipe / cat will also be install before tune )

front mount

10psi

Pod

Aiming at 190-200rwkw

Will the stock voltage be adequate ? I dont wanna overrun my pump and shorten the life.

its made that amount of power due to the fact its lean.

Seriously if your watching a dyno opperator and worried about them blowing your car up ( Considering he completed that power run id be worried as well) then you should be looking else where.

If its pinging and the engine is basicly stock like you say then check the basics first. Base ignition timing, base fuel pressure etc.

If his any good he should have a flow guage and pressure guage to test the pumps output.

Had a quick skim so don't know if anyone said it....

The knock reading on the SAFC is bullcrap.

Mine used to show knock and as the unit itself got hotter, the knock value increased.

I had over 100+ at one stage......on a standardish car.

Wrong, if done correctly with a relay, fuel pump turns on and off as per normal.

Bearing in mind that fuel pump is always running while car is running, hot fuel problems are usually cause by overkilling the fuel pump flow.

Nismo pump is a very good option as it is plug and play... but bear in mind the Nismo pump is a Bosch 023 pump.

Pump noise is either because it external mount, or incorrectly installed, or both.

Bosch is OEM for a great number of manufacturers.

Nope sorry buddy, your wrong, the ecu varies the voltage to the pump depending on the load on the engine, to make it run quieter at idle, reduce fuel heating and increase pump life.

the fpcm controls module alters the voltage to the fuel pump based on load from the ecu and im pretty sure it has 2 settings low and high, it has this because at light loads not as much fuel is needed so the pump doesn't pump as much fuel around to be heated by the engine bay, nothing to do with noise walbro is way louder than stock but you still have to be standing at the back of the car before you can even hear it. I only suggested that you bypass the fpcm as it maybe playing up not giving the correct voltage at high load. But if I was you id just change the pump and be done with it

maybe read this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...tml&hl=fpcm

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins
Nope sorry buddy, your wrong, the ecu varies the voltage to the pump depending on the load on the engine, to make it run quieter at idle, reduce fuel heating and increase pump life.

Wow thats interesting, thats something I wouldn't of thought they would bother with.

Still there is a solution on that link SevenAngryPenguins posted that still allows you to reap the reward of upgrading the cable to suit the new, higher load, with a different fpcm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...