Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a stall problem on my S2 so i took the kick pannel off the passenger side got the ecu out to do the diagnostic check. swiched the ignition on and no lights, on closer inspection there is the holes to view the lights and a hole for the screw but none of its there is ther any other way to do this with out a consult unit.

and why dont i have lights????

Edited by xr8eater
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210274-diy-to-do-diagnostic-on-an-r33-s2/
Share on other sites

My R33 S2 doesn't have lights on it's ECU either but at least mine doesn't have holes like the one you described. I haven't seen R33 Ecu having lights yet though. Most of the ECU i've seen are the concealed type.

You have to switch the car to the right diagnostic mode by shorting some terminals on the diagnostic plug. Its all in the workshop manual

That probably wont help with your stall issue, clean afm, aac etc. and go from there

ok after alot of messing about

i will finaly give you guys a way to do a diagnostic on an S2 with no lights on the eccs

first find the consult plug in the fuse bos next to the steering wheel as in pics

post-13070-1205647285_thumb.jpg

next remove the plug end and turn your car to the on position dont start it

post-13070-1205647395_thumb.jpg

get a paper clip and insert into only the holes shown for 2 seconds and remove

post-13070-1205647516_thumb.jpg

post-13070-1205647551_thumb.jpg

your engine check light should start to flash a series of codes

ECU Diagnostic Codes

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

13 Coolant temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU (ouch!)

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal and clear all faults.

to check the o2 sensor follow the prompts above but dont tun the ignition off just start the car the check light will flash off for rich on for lean.

Edited by xr8eater
  • 2 weeks later...

did the diagnostic test which worked perfrectly.... came upp with no. 12 afm prob.

my consult plaug didnt have the black plug connected in it, is just opened....

also are r33 s1 ecu identical with their terminal connector numbers as a r33 s2.

I need to check the continuity of terminal no. 26 & 27 which relate to the afm sensor wires.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...