Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok just thought id share some info

Mate and i rebuilt his rb20 with:

aries pistons

stock rods

stock manifolds

630cc injectors

ltx12s mircotech

gt3540 with 1.06 rear (off typhoon xr6)

walbro pump

jun cams and cam gears

We ran outta fuel but so far tonight screwing around on his dyno in matrix mode made with an inconsistent, 10.1 AFR towards the end of the rev range on 14psi without touching ignition timing yet it made 240rwkw...2psi at 4grand and builds very quick from there. Already the curve is very strong. previously without the cams it made 250.1 on 20psi. we are very interested to see what it makes tomorrow.

Will keep you all posted on the results...i just thought id post this up just incase you care.

I have two charts i will post up later tonight..

cheers guys

Edited by Ryanrb25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211139-forged-rb20-with-gt3540/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So your talking what, 20psi in by... 5000rpm? 5500rpm?

2psi @ 4000rpm i cant see building to 20 all that fast :P

Interesting result either way, bit low on the power but then thats due to AFR's to tidy up and a look see will be interesting

yea im very excited as to what it'll do tomorrow...yea afr's need tiding up big time, youll see by the chart im taking a photo of at the moment.

R31nismoid, yea i was skeptical of boost building also, this thing even sounds like an animal coming on boost.

The motor is in a plain jane White STOCK R31 silhouette with stock springs, stock wheels LOL.

keeping in mind timing hasn't been played with yet...this is just power runs to slowly level out AFR's.

Cam's haven't been played with either...Exhaust cam was retarded 5 degrees to compensate for no more CAS adjustment for 15 degrees timing.

I will get an engine bay pic tomorrow and the car itself, youll laugh!

post-23597-1205918570_thumb.jpg

post-23597-1205918617_thumb.jpg

shit... its 6800RPM before its doing much more than one with a RB25 turbo would at about 4500rpm - go the RB20 and the 1.06 :P

Thats love.

I think you might get 300-500rpm on it... but that would be about it.

I wouldnt call boost building from 4500rpm though (more like it makes 2psi @ 5000rpm), and then takes 2000rpm to make the other 12psi hehe

Obviously you boys are doing this for shits and giggles? Wind the RB20 out a bit more, they take 7500rpm ok

yea its for shits...mainly for teaching ourself how to fine tune....

that chart isn't a good indication of boost curve..it was running off a 14psi actuator so once a bleeder is fitted it should kinda spool a tad quicker, also taking some fuel out of the low rpm will help spool just that tad more lol..need all the spool we can get..

Once its all said and done ill put the 2540 on my 25 and put my turbo (gt2871r 56t) on the 20..

ill try find a chart of a better boost curve.

updates!!!!

YESTERDAY: Took a shit load of fuel out, played with the ignition timing as we were going, gradually gaining 10rwkw, ended up with 291rwkw on 16psi!!!!!

MADAZ (steve) took some footage! so that'll be on UTUBE soon!!

Very impressed with the numbers however at the last minute we suspect the exhaust cam is a tooth out as with the stock cams the power came on alot earlier....Will keep you posted with more information

cubes, only specs on the cams i know is 264 duration and .64 something. thats all i can remember offhand..cost a bucket!

here are some pics!

post-23597-1206059116_thumb.jpg

post-23597-1206059237_thumb.jpg

post-23597-1206059282_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ryanrb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...