Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats a very interesting theory. a bit far fetched perhaps, i see no reason why my car would be an auto convert! are there any cosmetic giveaways?

im very interested to hear your results.

hi,

got the car back on saturday, alot later then i expected, but thats always the case with machanics :wave:

now running standard R33 GTST manual box with Auto diff

i didnt get to test a large rev range as i didnt drive on the motor way over the weekend

however i did get the chance to do:

40kmh at 1000rpm and

80kmh at 2000rpm

id like to test 3000rpm but it does look like it will be 120kmh

agreed the theory was a bit far fetched :bunny: so mayby someone replaced the manual diff with an auto for high speeds

agreed the theory was a bit far fetched ;) so mayby someone replaced the manual diff with an auto for high speeds

how bizarre. thanks for your input! i think i may replace the diff down the track, but i guess having taller ratio would be good for highway, but standard ratio would be better for acceleration. im still not convinced my car is abnormal though lol. maybe the speedo is just out a bit haha.

There is a "rolling road" dyno that measures km/h. But is for checking speedo accuracy.

They put a device on the dash which displays speed at the wheels

and compare to speedo speed.

I had my car tested on this dyno. Goes up to 180km/h on the certificate of accuracy.

Edited by SKYPER
  • 1 month later...
how bizarre. thanks for your input! i think i may replace the diff down the track, but i guess having taller ratio would be good for highway, but standard ratio would be better for acceleration. im still not convinced my car is abnormal though lol. maybe the speedo is just out a bit haha.

It IS a bit out... at those speeds, definitely. It's a mechanical speedo, and its definitely not meant to be accurate over its 180km/h limit.

My mrs has a series 1 r31 N/A rb30 auto it sits on 2500 rpm at 100km/h but it goes hard of the line so i did some checking the auto came out with a 4.44 diff centre compared to 3.9/4.11 for the manual. So on take off the auto is comparable to a manual but once you get high in the rev range the auto cannot pull back the manual becuase the manual has the lower diff ratio it can pull more km per rpm. Look to the salt lake racers all of them would be running 2.7 diff ratios but it takes them 1.6 km to get up to speed. Rod hadfiled has built a commodore that does over 400km/h it is a salt lake racer has huge hp but its all in the diff ratio rear box ratio and try diameter.

http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculato...p?action=submit

This is a handy app to use the above to calculate your tyre diameter then fill in the rest this is obviously not concrete but rough guide if you play with it you see the differences in diff ratio and try size play in top speed

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/poten...calculator.html

Gear ratios can be found here

http://carizma.com.au/Pages/Details%20-%20...e%20-%20R33.htm

Edited by AndyD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...