Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Enkei Racing wheels 2 piece wheels, 17x9 +22 Offset (not sure which model) plus rubber Dunlop direzza 245x45x17 all round GTR Offset

Age: not sure came with car

Condition: fair condition, normal scuff marks, gutter marks

Price: $1200 or make an offer

To Fit: (What car) came off a R32 GTR

Location: Liverpool

Contact: 0433 384 056

Comments:

Item: C's short shifter

Age: not sure came out of previous owned car

Condition: good

Price: SOLD

To Fit: (What car) R32 GTR not sure wat else it can work in

Location: Liverpool

Contact: 0433 384 056

Comments:

post-21534-1206086599_thumb.jpg

Edited by SAM-32R

will the rims fit R33 gtst s2 ?

i got no clearance between guards and tyre at the moment im wondering with that size and offset if it will scrub?

how much tread is left?

will the rims fit R33 gtst s2 ?

i got no clearance between guards and tyre at the moment im wondering with that size and offset if it will scrub?

how much tread is left?

iam not to sure on the offset, and iam not sure on whether they will fit on an R33 mate. sorri bout that

like i've stated iam not too sure on those details as they came with the car

and wen i took them off.. there were no info labels on them

, they have just under 50% tread all round left.

If it came out of a R32 GTR it should be:

ITEM # C 1309NL

ITEM C's Short Shifter for Skyline (BNR32/HNR32/BNR33/ENR33)

Good luck with the sale

they wont fit on a 33GTST without modification. 9inch + 20 on the front with 245s will be fouling on the guards for sure.

so is that the offset?

Hey mate, i honestly dont noe, i dont noe where Beer Baron got that from, but if

he's quite certain about it then i'll take his word for it. your more than welcome to have

an inspection if ur intrested mate, but they are the same offset all-round, thats all i could tell u

as for the exact measurement, i dont noe

have a crack at measuring the offset:

http://www.chevellestuff.com/tech/wheel_offset.htm

not many people want to buy a wheel not knowing its offset so it would probably help heaps with the sale if u could find out. im semi-interested pending offset.

have a crack at measuring the offset:

http://www.chevellestuff.com/tech/wheel_offset.htm

not many people want to buy a wheel not knowing its offset so it would probably help heaps with the sale if u could find out. im semi-interested pending offset.

Thanks for the tip mate, but as i was following the instructions, turned over one of the wheels

and it actually had all the measurements imprinted on the wheel itself lols

soo it's 17x9 with +22 offset as it is imprinted on all 4 wheels, hope this helps everyone intrested now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...