Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lets say I have a complete automatic R33 RB25DET harness with the automatic ecu.

If I were to convert to 5 speed, would a 5 speed R33 RB25DET ecu plug directly into the automatic harness?

I know some of the auto wiring will not be used if so...

Just trying to figure out how hard it would be to convert a auto Rb25DET to 5 speed.

If anyone has any OTHER information too, please post. I'll be searching in the mean time as well.

Thanks.

EDIT: I also deleted and reposted this thread btw. The first one had some funny mistakes. I've been awake over 25 hours now. :tired:

Go to sleep man! LOL

I'll have to double check but I've got a funny feeling that an auto ECU will work fine with a manual gearbox but not vice versa. Don't quote me tho...

Is the mechanical side sorted? Ie flexplate swapped for flywheel???

Yes, the mechanical side would be all sorted out.

I've also been told the automatic ECU works fine. Anyone confirm that? I need to know ASAP because I have auto R33 engine swap on hold for me, yet it's an automatic.

BTW, I noticed in your post in my last thread that you said that all RB25DET's are RWD... what about the Stagea Wagon with the AWD RB25DET? Do they have those in aussie land?

Thanks btw. (getting ready to sleep hehe)

Guest RedLineGTR

In a automatic car their are two ecus

One is the main one and the other is for the auto trans.

The main ecu is tuned less richer than the manual ecu dont know why but it is. The Main ecu with work fine with a man or auto trans.

THe auto trans ecu is mainly for the auto box itself, the main ecu just communicates to the auto ecu.

The Connection to the main ecu and a manual ecu is the same and thier should not be a problem.

Cheers Rob

Redline, thank you VERY much. I had no idea and I understand completely now.

Will there be any check engine lights though?

And does anyone have any input on my engine pictures? It is an R33 RB25DET AWD right? Because sometimes other people looking at pictures can find different things. :D

This shit is hard to get info on in america. Thanks though.

You seem to be doing things a little bit the hard way, why didn't you just get a package RB25DEt engine/5 speed complete with ECU and wireing loom or better still an R33 front cut which would have given you some very useful extras.

Because it just didn't happen that way. One of the reasons is that this engine seems to be very clean. And it comes with everything a clip would except for the interior harness, cluster, etc.

Most clips I've seen don't come with intercooler piping or any of that shit, so I'm not really concerned about having a clip.

Plus, do you have any idea how hard it is to get RB25DET clips here in America? lol.... just try to find one from a reputable place. I searched high and low, almost every site I could find had a waiting list for RB25DET clips.

ONE site had them, but I would have to wait a loooooong time to have it imported. F that.

I'll get everything figured out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...