Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you get an NA one driving past no-one will know the difference whether its turbo or not :(

I think parents who buy their kids turbo cars are irresponsible why dont they just give their son/daughter a loaded gun just to see what happens :)

Your parents are doing the right thing, honestly look into an Australian Delivered r31 if you want a skyline that much, your insurance will be alot cheaper cos its not an import plus it has a bigger engine :merli:

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

no it doesnt im probably going to put it in my parents names because it would be cheaper

forgive me if i am wrong, but i was under the impression that insurance companies required import cars whether turbo or NA to be insured under the youngest driver...i know just car require this. so even if its under your parents name and you are in an accident they wont cover you. And we all know insurance companies will do anything to take our money when it comes to premiums, but when it comes to pay outs they will find anything that may void your policy.

goodluck with that all champ!

my first car was a tg gemini that i paid 1500 for, it wasnt the nicest looking car but was extremely reliable.

in hindsight it was the best option for me because i literally killed that car, it copped huge mechanical abuse then got stacked in the end.

imo, buy something cheap to learn in, save some cash, buy turbo car later.

i'm just gonna say your dad is a smart cookie

if i had a 17yo kid i wouldn't let them get a "fast" car.

i think you should think about getting something that isn't so fast

and when you get more driving experience then go for it.

if you get the insurance put in your parents name make sure your name is on there aswel

Edited by pokie

most insurance companies would be a little suspect of a 55 year old man getting a R32 gtst that made in 1990+ (my thoughts only)

and i you put your name as driver #2 would has at a guess that your the primary driver (again my thoughts out aloud)

most insurance companies would be a little suspect of a 55 year old man getting a R32 gtst that made in 1990+ (my thoughts only)

and i you put your name as driver #2 would has at a guess that your the primary driver (again my thoughts out aloud)

Get an Aussie R31.... that was my first car. Sure, theyre not as pretty as more modern lines, but they handle well, are cheap to run, cheap to fix, and the 3 lt engine is nothing to sniff at

-D

i'm just gonna say your dad is a smart cookie

if i had a 17yo kid i wouldn't let them get a "fast" car.

i think you should think about getting something that isn't so fast

and when you get more driving experience then go for it.

if you get the insurance put in your parents name make sure your name is on there aswel

yeh i kind of agree, i bought my car when i was 16, didnt have any real issues with it, but i think when i look at some of my mates, i can see why people would be hesitant to get their kid a fast car, and u just dont know what kind of a driver ur kid is going to be.

riiiite

whats so funny about the pulsar, probably go harder than you can handle anyway.

maybe point out the positive sides of a skyline, advanced suspension etc. convince him into letting you get one. after all, he doesnt want you getting one because hes scared your going to be an idiot and kill yourself on the road.

turbo'd cars only go fast when the person behind the wheel lets them...

Pulsar GTiR (4wd sr20det) from memory runs 1/4 in the 12's....now thats pretty fkn quick, especially for a stock car.

If i were you dude, id get an r33 gts4 (n/a) and when u get off ur Ps, stick and rb30det in it :blink:. mmmm....

whats wrong with 17 and owning a turbo car ^_^ just because some didnt have one when they were 17 i bet if u were 17 and ur parents offered you would definately take it! i know i did lol..

whats wrong with 17 and owning a turbo car ^_^ just because some didnt have one when they were 17 i bet if u were 17 and ur parents offered you would definately take it! i know i did lol..

someone sounds like they are spoilt :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...