Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

excellent thanks for that... so hoping for around 280... mayb 300kws the afms should be fine.... there was someone on here selling 80mm afms with plugs for $300. but if they should get 300 im all good

Because im trying to rulw things out that would stop me from reaching the 300kws mark...

Im guessing the set up will get me around 280kws MAYB 300...

Id love the 300 so just trying to work out what would hold me back...

Edited by Adz2332
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211845-standered-afms/#findComment-3743260
Share on other sites

Taken from PaulR33's site

Rule of thumb for Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP

------ ---- OD ---- RWKW ---- RWKW ---- BHP ------ BHP

No of AFM's ---- ------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2

RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474

RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683

Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763

Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211845-standered-afms/#findComment-3743460
Share on other sites

excellent thanks for that... so hoping for around 280... mayb 300kws the afms should be fine.... there was someone on here selling 80mm afms with plugs for $300. but if they should get 300 im all good

Because im trying to rulw things out that would stop me from reaching the 300kws mark...

Im guessing the set up will get me around 280kws MAYB 300...

Id love the 300 so just trying to work out what would hold me back...

He was talking about 300hp, not 300kw for a stocker, although I think it's something closer to 340hp or so at the motor.

I think Paul's numbers are a bit off also. I only pulled 4800mv through it at 400rwhp, and I'm ballpark 500rwhp now and pulling 4995mv through it on cold nights. I know it's a 5v sensor, but I've seen people go over that (to like 5100mv) making 530rwhp. I have sucked water into my intake after a carwash before and it pegged it at 5150mv.

Nismoid, what kind of voltage are you pulling at that power level?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211845-standered-afms/#findComment-3743676
Share on other sites

Are the numbers what you can make approximately when u hit the last load cell, or just what you will pull through the afm, because at the end of the day you can load that last cell up with fuel and will be "fine" and make much more power then it technically can read.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211845-standered-afms/#findComment-3744766
Share on other sites

Are the numbers what you can make approximately when u hit the last load cell, or just what you will pull through the afm, because at the end of the day you can load that last cell up with fuel and will be "fine" and make much more power then it technically can read.

They are my numbers determined in the tuning of well over 40 Skylines since 1999. They are RWKW at 5.1 volts on a properly calibrated Dyno Dynamics at zero knock with circuit racing safe A/F ratios and using 98 ron pump fuel. They do not allow for happy dynos, hub dynos, boost spikes, race fuel, dangerous A/F ratios or smart tuning past 5.1 volts.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211845-standered-afms/#findComment-3744824
Share on other sites

I have an R32 GTR. Air Flow meters are still standard (other parts not standard but as we are talking just afm's didnt feel necessary to list) and on 24psi I am putting out 341kw at the wheels. My tuner is telling me however that the afm's are now at or close enough too their max.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211845-standered-afms/#findComment-3744834
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...