Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i got a 94 GTS25T.

I wanna start doing it up a bit (its standard).

I thought about doing up the stereo first but that sorta stuff aint my bag. So what can i do without doing heavy work. I e no change of turbo/motor/etc etc.

What i am probably looking for are ideas for cold air intakes and other stuff I dont know about? Any ideas?

TA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Regarding aftermarket ECU, which one more worth it, PowerFC + optional boost control kit or PowerFC + separate elec boost control like AVC-R?

The price difference could be up to $300-400 which can be put into other mods. This is to consider that I don't fancy going to drag racing, so application is for normal street driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-447692
Share on other sites

Yeah loads of stuff to do.....

I went in the deep end and have personally blown 3 motors...

Do it right.... Get the safty stuff first....

1. Fire ext

2. Fire Blanket

3. Water to put on a fire

Just kidding

Serious

1. FMIC

2. Exhaust

3. POD

4. Chip

Then go stupid.....

If you get these bits first then you will be able to do almost anything and still be safe... well i mean the engine will be safe...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-447873
Share on other sites

Now when i say the engine will be safe i mean .....

If you treat it with respect no like i have done in the past....

Learn from my mistakes.

1. Dont put on big turbos on stock coolers

2. When someting goes wrong with the motor and you are still not sure after 24hours... Then buy a front cut... It will be cheaper trust me... ($800 AFM, $2400 gearbox/clutch, $2600 new motor)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-447881
Share on other sites

In limited knowledge i'd be doing:

* Full 3" Exhaust (front/dump/cat/cat-back/muffler)

* Pod Filter (with cold air feed)

* FMIC (keep things running cool)

* Pineapples (better rear end squat)

* Quality set of tyres (no point having power if u cant put it to the ground)

* 2 stage boost controller

* Ex Cam Gear

Should be 165+ rwkw from that and will give you a nice kick in the pants for a month or 2.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448031
Share on other sites

go to page 1 of each of these threads.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=9292

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=9445

They both contain mods that cost very little and will keep the car driving smoothly and with excellent response.

Pods are a waste of money unless you like the loud noises they make. Just buy a K&N panel element and stick it in the stock airbox. Air filters provide very little performance gains by the way so keep it cheap.

Avoid the aftermarket intercooler if you are keeping the stock turbo, they cost alot. Bottom line is too much cost for very little gain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448177
Share on other sites

thanks rev210 i try but it also depends of which way u look at it

Air-Filter is always a cheap mod

Exhuast It always help, no point running a mod car on stock one :uh-huh:

Aftermarket Chip = good idea

Aftermark intercooler (i like the look of a front one :D)

By the way rev210 might be getting myself a R_34 GTS-T 2 go wit the vette :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448248
Share on other sites

Its quite hard to chip an r33, the chip that stores the maps is also the microprocessor for the ecu. My suggestion's would be:

full turbo back exhaust

bleed valve set to around 10-12psi

powerfc or wolf3d ecu

That would have you up and around 250-270hp, depending on the dyno which would make for an entertaining ride. A bonus of the wolf3d over the powerfc is that it has boost control built in, so you can do it more reliably than the bleed valve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448255
Share on other sites

Guest MFX_R33

Yes Rob is right. It is very hard to chip an RB25, but if you are only looking at mid mods, you don't "need" to go to the expense of a full aftermarket ECU. A SAFC would do you for mild mods (and a shit load cheaper). I would also recommend just getting a very cheap bleed valve for the boost control which does the job without a problem. You can go for a "Turbosmart" unit or alike (around $100), or just go down to you local auto parts store and you can buy youself a T-Piece some hose and a ball valve (about $20) which does the same thing. I have even gone further putting in a 2 stage, fully adjustable boost control using a fuel solonoid (cost me around $70).

Jeff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448502
Share on other sites

Milo, I'm pretty much in the same boat as you, I've had my R33 a couple of months and am contemplating mods.

If I was you i'd look at getting a 3" exhaust/hiflow cat/dump, air pod+partition wall, dual stage boost controller, FMIC (not to big) and an APEXi S-AFC II or full blown chip like a powerfc if you have the cash.

Susupension and handling wise, maybe some front and rear strut bars, pineapples and adjustable suspension.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448519
Share on other sites

Like Milo I am a noob. Few qs

If u wind the boost to around 10-12psi, would it be safer to get a FMIC? Or would getting a cheaper intercooler like a GTR one be a better bet?

with mild mods would getting an e-manage be sufficient? Or would the power fc be a better bet (cos once u feel the boost, u wanna mod more and more) :D

Great post keep the suggestions coming

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448529
Share on other sites

No point getting any type of management system until you have done all the basics:

Full 3" Exhaust

Pod

FMIC

Boost Controller

= ~$3000

Otherwise you'll spend just as much getting your PowerFC (~$1500 + Tuning) re-tuned after each mod as you did buying the PowerFC.

Besides some cars dont require any management systems to get good power especially in the early stages. If your talking in rwkw (which is the only measurement i sorta understand) then...

Stock Exhaust -> Full Turbo-back 3" Exhaust = ~15rwkw

7psi -> 12psi = ~15rwkw

Pod filter = ~5rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448549
Share on other sites

I would definately be getting a front mount intercooler and bigger fuel pump, if you want to keep ur engine from detenating. Which should be no 1. My intakes temp dropped from over 40 degrees above ambient to a max of 6 degrees above. Pwr increased by 20rwkw with no extra boost. My pinging levels dropped by half when I installed the Bosch Motorsport pump, which can be put down to more stable fuel pressures. I can't stress these two mods enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448554
Share on other sites

Lots if differing opinions definitely.

- FMIC sounds like it is not worth it for mild mods. But isnt it worth it if u get such a good drop in intake temps? Will u get temperature problems if u run a GTST on higher boost on hot days?

- Can u really get ~5rwkw just by putting a CAI + Pod filter on??

- Does upgrading a fuel pump mean u need to get a SAFC or get a management system for it?

BoostD - r u running any other mods to require the fuel pump? Turbos?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448746
Share on other sites

My 2 cents; I too am new to Skylines, and am currenlty contemplating mods. Full turbo-back exhaust, Apexi S-AFC II, FMIC and fuel pump will be my first mods. You really can't go past the FMIC! Pods are a waste of money (my opinion), and remember you're only allowed 1 intake mod, or else the boys in blue will give you a nice piece of paper:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21212-mods-to-a-gtst/#findComment-448785
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...