Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t Front Conversion To Gtr

theminuz

By theminuz,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

theminuz Collaborator

theminuz

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi all

im currently midway in changin my front to gtr.

im doing the usual conversion, just after a bit of heads up to things that i may have missed.

what i currently have;

-genuine gtr front guards

-genuine gtr front bar with n1 slots and lower lip

-genuine gtr bonnet

-gtr indicators

-gtr grill

stuff i still need to get my hands on;

-nothing now

if i have read/searched correctly this is all i need to change up the front. the above genuine parts should replace my standard parts yeah?

i have heard that you need to change/modify the striker pin for the bonnet latch? is this true

things i might need to get my hands on;

-gtr reo wih n1 slot provision

-gtr bonnet catch assembly

thanks for any heads up with this and possible headf@cks

ben

Edited by benji_32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212469-r32-gts-t-front-conversion-to-gtr/
Share on other sites
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

Yep, you have to move the bonnet latch, I think its down 10mm?

You will also need to modify your reinforcement bar so the vents slide in through the bar and through the reinforcement bar as the GTST one doesn't have provision for vents

Let me know how you go - I want to know if the GTR guards line straight up or if you have to stuff around with them

Good luck

theminuz Collaborator

theminuz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yep, you have to move the bonnet latch, I think its down 10mm?

You will also need to modify your reinforcement bar so the vents slide in through the bar and through the reinforcement bar as the GTST one doesn't have provision for vents

Let me know how you go - I want to know if the GTR guards line straight up or if you have to stuff around with them

Good luck

10mm, awesome thanks for i'll have a play around when i get around to the fitting

with the n1 slots i have actually already cut out a large portion of the reo to allow for fmic and also a copy gtr bar i had a while back.

yer no worries, it'll be a while till its done as im off for work again monday but i'll take some pics fo ya.

get a GTR bumper reinforcement because the GTR bar will never sit right on a GTSt reinforcement

ok, thanks for the heads up. i'm gonna test fit the bar on in the morn anyway so i'll c how it sits. doesnt bother me too much as where i got the guards and bar from have the actual reo from the car which they were origionally on.

c how we go tomoz

theminuz Collaborator

theminuz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i just picked up myself the last few parts needed.

one problem, the gtr grille... um my headlights have the provision for the grille to be bolted to them (projector style type m headlights) although there seems that i may have trouble with the little bonnet release catch. im talking about the latch that you pull upwards to release the bonnet from the catch assembly! what have people done with this. ive had a quick look and seems as thugh that needs to be bent upwards to allow room for the grille... or is a gtr assembly needed?

Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted

My gts-t has a gtr grill too and the bonnet latch needed to be moved up. You will see a little indent at the top of the grill and thats where it has to sit. I didnt have to buy a gtr latch but i have a copy gtr bar with the gtst reo so you may need to get a gtr latch for the gtr reo if that makes sense. Good luck

theminuz Collaborator

theminuz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
My gts-t has a gtr grill too and the bonnet latch needed to be moved up. You will see a little indent at the top of the grill and thats where it has to sit. I didnt have to buy a gtr latch but i have a copy gtr bar with the gtst reo so you may need to get a gtr latch for the gtr reo if that makes sense. Good luck

the latch setup has nothing to do with the reo? it bolts on well above the reo.

my gtr front bar sits well on my gtst reo, although i had already cut a large portion out for my fmic.

so there we go, all i need now is a gtr latch kit and that should basically be the front panel conversion done. im away with work at the moment so i'll have to do this when i return in 2 wks.

  • 2 weeks later...
theminuz Collaborator

theminuz

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
My gts-t has a gtr grill too and the bonnet latch needed to be moved up. You will see a little indent at the top of the grill and thats where it has to sit. I didnt have to buy a gtr latch but i have a copy gtr bar with the gtst reo so you may need to get a gtr latch for the gtr reo if that makes sense. Good luck
the latch setup has nothing to do with the reo? it bolts on well above the reo.

my gtr front bar sits well on my gtst reo, although i had already cut a large portion out for my fmic.

so there we go, all i need now is a gtr latch kit and that should basically be the front panel conversion done. im away with work at the moment so i'll have to do this when i return in 2 wks.

sorry for tha above mate, you were sorta right. didnt mean to have a go at ya.

you were slightly correct as the reo did need to be changed, but not the entire reo.

what needed to be changed was the 'L' shaped bracked which the 'bonnet lock' bolts onto, this is easily replaced (3 bolts) with one from a gtr which uses the exact same mounts, however the bracket where the lock bolts onto is located 10-20mm closer to the engine.

once the above item is in place u will need to play around with the hand lever by removing it and making some new bends and it will sit up perfectly in place to allow for the gtr grille.

one problem with this is - if u have a greddy fmic or similar kit, the top tab is mounted to this 'L' reo part, now that you have installed the gtr item the mounting bolt for the fmic is further away. some playing around and this is an easy fix.

just a heads up for those guys who r looking at doing what i have.

this is the 'L' shapped reo bolt on thingo that im talking about... this is what needs to be changed to gtr, the lock does not need to be changed.... no no it doesnt lol.

post-36971-1207983002_thumb.jpg

Edited by benji_32
Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted

No worries mate i realised after looking at my car lol. I gotta get one of those parts too cos i just got a normal gtst bonnet after the crash and want the light and good looking gtr one again. Then off to the panel beater for a paint. Yours looks awesome by the way!

theminuz Collaborator

theminuz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks, it'll be going in for paint in may so i will put some finished pics up after that

also just installed a brand new highfowed hks2530 and a few other supporting mods... goes aswell as it looks lol

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • TheBushKangaroo
      Hello fellow enthusiasts

      By TheBushKangaroo · Posted

      Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...