Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

No i don't need spare audio buttons :P

what I was thinking is to get the assy from US, cost about $60-80 shipped not quite sure exact shipping cost yet, and

see if a local company like Autron can wire it to their generic vacuum cruise control unit.

chris, do you want the spare audio (left hand side of steering wheel) buttons you left in my car?

i obviously have no use for them!

I do.

Is that SCS you mean the same with either the SCS-4342 or SCS-3342 ?

3342 - electric. van version is a pain on those cars.

best if I talk you through it. you have the buttons and diagrams to wire it? ring me on monday. I'm away at my parents until then (I'm on a 28k dialup link to my shop server right now.)

No, haven't got the buttons yet, just ordered last night, was just warming up the engine n looking at the panel and tried to tweak it but won't budge. only saw two caps on both side of the steering wheel cowl which reveals 2 bolts on both side but not sure if that's where I am suppose to start.

will ring you after it arrives, possibly after the long weekend next week.

ok:

undo battery negative lead.(remember to reset your TV.)

remove cover caps from side of steering wheel.

remove two tamperproof (think they are t30)

remove air bag and pop clip out of the bag of the plug

pull plug out of air bag and set that aside.

disconnect horn wire (yellow wire that runs to steel frame.)

undo the two torx bolts that are now visible (t30 or t35) and remove assembly, careful with springs

undo 19mm nut but do not take it off.

unplug steering controls and send to me :P

wriggle wheel until it comes off.

remove 19mm nut and remove

remove 4 phillips screws and remove the rear plastic shroud, this is clipped on.

remove 4 screws from SWC and blank panel.

when you put it back together route the cruise wiring across the top of the rear cover so it doesn't foul on the horn assembly.

ring me if you get lost.

unplug steering controls and send to me :)

thank's for the instruction, didn't think it'll be that complicated just to get to the stupid blank panel :P

which one? the blank one or the new cruise control? do you need to modify anything before it will work?

also you said the harness is already pre-wired inside the steering wheel column to connect to the cruise buttons, is that right?

thank's for the instruction, didn't think it'll be that complicated just to get to the stupid blank panel :)

which one? the blank one or the new cruise control? do you need to modify anything before it will work?

also you said the harness is already pre-wired inside the steering wheel column to connect to the cruise buttons, is that right?

yep its a fun job. I want your old radio controls :) harness is wired through the clockspring but terminates on the wheel side inside the column shroud - you need the wiring diagram to pin it out and get the wiring through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...