Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question,

I live sorta near Lakeside Nissan, so dropping it in for a service isnt a huge problem for me. I drive a 98 GT-T, almost 80,000k's/ In your opinion, is it worth me going with Nissan for a service? Like im 20 000k's away from major service, and it would be good to build up a service history with them and use genuine parts...

Thanks

I recently got a quote from Unley Nissan for a minor service.

Compared to Boostworx they are much more expensive ($190 v $165 respectively). Plus they Nissan said they wouldn't be able to fit anything much lower than stock height on their hoists.

In my opinion for just a service I wouldn't pay the extra money for a "genuine" service especially when Nissan recommended Boostworx!

In my opinion for just a service I wouldn't pay the extra money for a "genuine" service especially when Nissan recommended Boostworx!

You serious?? They reccomended Boostworx?? Thats GOLD, Gonna tell shaun that!! LOL

Yeh mate i wouldnt worry about getting a Nissan dealership to service your car, as stated cost more, Look if your worried about having a service history then dont worry too much, people will notice that all your service reciepts are from a workshop anyways, and they generally state what oils and so forth they have used!!

Personally, no. Might have been different in the early days of the R32 but Nissan hasn't sold a Skyline here for years. There are plenty of places with experience working on skylines. True it's only a service but I'd find a workshop/mechanic that has a good reputation and go there.

PS. The last time I left my car at a certain Nissan dealer (not Lakeside) it was stolen from inside the workshop.

Just a quick question,

I live sorta near Lakeside Nissan, so dropping it in for a service isnt a huge problem for me. I drive a 98 GT-T, almost 80,000k's/ In your opinion, is it worth me going with Nissan for a service? Like im 20 000k's away from major service, and it would be good to build up a service history with them and use genuine parts...

Thanks

It depends on who you want to hand over your hard earned cash to.

So long as you don't have your hillbilly cousin spinning spanners on it, take it to any mechanic who knows his thing.

Personally, I'd want my money to support the small guy, like Shaun at Boostworx.

:glare:

i got a service from a dealer (not naming anyone) and they filled my baby with too much oil......it was horrible.....and since then i have been getting it serviced at import workshops and havnt had a problem since then......and i think someone mentioned this before but on the reciepts they do write a whole lot of information about what you are paying for and whats been used on your car.....

an average basic survice consists of drain oil replace oil filter refil oil blow out air filter or replace......

oil filter 10-15 bucks oil top quality 40-50 bucks

do it yourself.

its the 100,000 km survice that id get done proffessionally e.g. timing belt sparkplugs etc

^^^ I agree - a normal service is an hours work to do yourself tops! Plus, it is fun to work on your own car!

....... PS. The last time I left my car at a certain Nissan dealer (not Lakeside) it was stolen from inside the workshop.

WTF? What was the outcome of this? Did they ever recover the car? Did Nissan pay you out for it/damage?

i wouldnt take it to a dealer ship.. they charge to much and they dont really know much about tubo cars ect... they only deal with aus delivered mainly.. i would take it to a preformance shop if ya cant do it yaself, cos any one else would prolly giv it a rapn

where i work just around the cnr from lakeside basic service replace oil filter and sump plug washer /refill oil /blow out air cleaner replace if required wheels off check brakes pads genarel inspection of exaust and steering and suspension components . tyre rotation if applicable we change wiper blades usually as a freebe if it;s needed and tyre black the tyres

list any faults found and notify owner

cheers mid life crisis

Well the bloke I talked to on the phone did. I wouldn't say Nissan themselves recommended 'em hehe!

There's a bloke at the nissan parts and service counter who drives a skyline... he mentioned good things about boostworx too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...