Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Jun Oil Pump. The best of the best ... when an N1 pump just doesn't cut it.

Location: Milton, Brisbane

Item Condition: Good. Small chip on the oil pump drive, but hasn't caused a problem.

Price and Payment Conditions: $700

Contact Details: Post here. Or PM. Or sms on 0423766972.

junpump1ah8.jpg

junpump2dv6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212992-jun-oil-pump-rb26-25-20-the-best/
Share on other sites

Did you buy this from Yahoo Japan?

small chip where exactly?

no history on item at all..... was it working before it was removed?

reason for sale?

1. No

2. Just on the 'gear drive'

3 & 4. No history, no idea. Wasn't going to use a $2000 oil pump on a POS RB20 :whistling: And since my lady friend decided not to use it on her RB25, its gotta go.

i bought an N1 pump that looked like it had a chip across the flat section of the impeller.....on magnified inspection it turned out to be cracked right through to the gears,apparently common

not saying this is a problem with this pump,just worth close inspection

luckily i didn't install the one i bought as it would have grenaded lots of $$$$,the seller kindly refunded my dough

good luck with the sale

  • 2 weeks later...
$300

i have lowered the price because i can't tell whether it has cracked through the gear or not

probably hasn't, but i dont want to sell it for a high price if it is :D

Rip it appart and take a look and put it back together my 2 cents

$300

i have lowered the price because i can't tell whether it has cracked through the gear or not

probably hasn't, but i dont want to sell it for a high price if it is :banana:

if the gears cracked then the whole thing is useless...

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, this pump was sold to me. the small chip on the drive collar turned out to be 2 massive cracks running right across the drive collar. These extended into the housing of the pump. There were several cracks (5 that i can see. I dunno whats hidden.) I would have been happy to send this back to Seamus and him to return my money to me considering it is totally farked and nothing like in his description.

"Item Condition: Good. Small chip on the oil pump drive, but hasn't caused a problem.

Price and Payment Conditions: $700"

Im glad nobody bought it for the $700 originally asked for.

As for selling a totally reamed pump Seamus, your lucky u don't live within driving distance cos id be kicking you door down by now. At least you coulda replied to the several PM's i sent you...

I hope you feel guilty as and karma bites hard core.

i bought an N1 pump that looked like it had a chip across the flat section of the impeller.....on magnified inspection it turned out to be cracked right through to the gears,apparently common

not saying this is a problem with this pump,just worth close inspection

luckily i didn't install the one i bought as it would have grenaded lots of $$$$,the seller kindly refunded my dough

good luck with the sale

SEE? "the seller kindly refunded my dough"

Why can't i be refunded??

^^^What its fecked??? what a rip off merchant!! :D

Someone ban this sammy fu$cker!

What kind of kent sells a expensive f**ked engine part that is vital to the engine life! scum.......and trys to get $700 !!! for it! dam pirate :ban:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...