Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Ssq Bov Install Probs

CK34GT

By CK34GT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

CK34GT Enthusiast

CK34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

If someone could please post a pic of their R34 GTT engine bay with the HKS SSQ fitted, that would be unreal. I could just follow your lead.

Thanks heaps for all your help people.

CK

Edited by CK34GT
R34NRG Grand Master

R34NRG

Posted
Posted (edited)

okai CON heres the rundown.

you have 2 options.

Option 1 is ATMO = atmo just required you to remove "BOV" (see picture below) and replace it with the SSQV, aswell as pluggin the original Vacumm hose(see pic) into the SSQV BOV ONLY IF YOU HAVE THE ADPATER TO SUIT YOUR CAR!!!!!

if you dont have the adapter.......welding is required which = more time = more money

Option 2 is Plumb Back = same Process as option 1 but you will require a PLumb Back Kit (official term by HKS is called a "Return Nipple") if you have this its pretty much a swap and plug n play.

If you dont have the return Nipple and your want your bov to be plumbed back, youll need to modify your exisiting plumb back system to suit the ssqv, which can be a long process.

are you in melb con? if u are let us know pop around sometime ill get it fitted for ya.

2002801899462616405fshl4.jpg

bov1du0.jpg

2002806121756749678_fs.jpg

in the above picture, the black hose is a "VACUM HOSE" supplied with your HKS BOV.....it is recommended that you use this one because its newer, but you can use the one thats still on your car =]

any questions dont hesitate to ask

Edited by R34NRG
CK34GT Enthusiast

CK34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks heaps Andrew, i figured thats what i had to do. Im in Sydney actually but thanks for the offer.

One last thing, you see the black spin top looking piece in the plastic bag.... whats that for?

TurBIce Rookie

TurBIce

Posted
Posted
thanks heaps Andrew, i figured thats what i had to do. Im in Sydney actually but thanks for the offer.

One last thing, you see the black spin top looking piece in the plastic bag.... whats that for?

U use that plastic bit to cover the return plump back. IF your not plumping it back.

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted
thanks heaps Andrew, i figured thats what i had to do. Im in Sydney actually but thanks for the offer.

One last thing, you see the black spin top looking piece in the plastic bag.... whats that for?

Its a filter :devil:

SCR34M Proficient

SCR34M

Posted
Posted

my hks ssq was a striaght bolt.. reason is, i didnt plum back... undo both bolts on stock bov, remove bov, dis connect the plum back hose, plug with that black bung you got in the plastic bag, tighten up the hose clamp around the bung, bolt on hks ssq, small vacuum line goes into the little ufo lookin thingy...lol... other hose connects directly to the bov... peace of pish!!

Btw i have a 34 just in case you were wondering!!

CK34GT Enthusiast

CK34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

HAY GUYS THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR INFO, I FITTED THE BOV LAST FRIDAY AND ITS WORKING WELL.

I LEFT IT ATMOSPHERIC AS THE OFFSET BETWEEN MY BOV AND RETURN PIPE ARE ABOUT 2 INCHES OFF.

I HAVE TO SAY THAT I FELT AN IMMEDIATE POWER DROP SINCE FITTING THE HKS BOV. UNTIL I AM READY TO PLUMB BACK MY HKS I AM CONSIDERING TO PUT THE FACTORY BOV BACK ON SO I CAN GET THE AIR CIRCULATING AGAIN.

DID ANYONE OUT HERE ALSO FEEL A DROP IN POWER WHEN FITTING AN ATMO BOV?

R33Turbo Proficient

R33Turbo

Posted
Posted (edited)

lol yeah it should even slightly increase ur turbo response apparently. but i know for a fact ur car will run crappy (as in not smooth) with atmo bov cuz mine does it :blink: but not with stock ones but still it doesn't drop power or boost

Edited by R33Turbo
limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted
If it's sound you want, I wouldn't install it onto your R34 GTT as the HKS BOV won't give you nice sound until you run a bucket load of boost through it...

Again...thats a load of absolute BS...we have told you before that you DO NOT need high boost on this bov to get that sound...it just needs some adjustment...and if it still needs very high boost to open...the BOV is faulty...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...