Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im new here and new to skylines. i've owned 4 commodores over the past few years and sick of em and wanting something different. now im quite comfortable checking out holdens as i know what to look for etc but im completely stumped on skylines. i'm selling my two vr's and im after a R32 or R33 turbo'd 5 speed. just after general things to look at mechanically especially in higher km cars, cosmetically{rust spots} etc. im not after any spectacular, just something in fairly good nick which i can modify to my tastes. thx for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213353-new-to-imports/
Share on other sites

Just off the top of my head

Check...

Speedo, all Japanese cars came with a 180km speedo unless factory specified = R34 GTR N1's and up (from memory)

With 180 km speedo its more likely the K's are believable or the best you can rely on anyway.

Listen out for any noises in engine / turbos / diff / gearbox, listen to the car to see if it sounds healthy

Look at the gauges to make sure they are all working.

All the lights in the dash are lit.

Brakes, make sure the disk are not warped and brake pads

Flaky paint on inlet plenum = was driven hard and the heat has taken off the paint.

Check liquids = Oil / Brake / Clutch / Radiator / Power steering

Check the spark plug gaps, only way to tell if the car had a boost controller or not. Usually the gap is Wider if its been boosted and with after-market spark plugs.

Give the car a rev to see how smooth it goes and then give it a quick high rev to see how well it reacts and then check the rpm on idle to see if it drops out.

Test drive the car to see its performance.

Everything should be in mechanical working order!

Bring a mechanic with you!

Interior...

Wear on seats, front and rear / doors / gear shift knob / hand brake / carpets / and all panels

air vents to make sure its not broken or a boost gauge shoved in it

Exterior...

Check Panels for rust / any accident history / paint

keep in mind you are buying a car which are 2nd hand but hopefully to the very good condition and things are bound to be changed anytime soon if not later. Keep and eye on turbos / brakes / diff / clutch...

Unless the car is FACTORY STOCK, one owner with service history books, service every 5000ks and timing belt changed at 100 000km (at least if not earlier) and not a single modification.

If you buy a later model = new car but still check everything.

There is a tonne of stuff, just PM me if you want anything in specific.

Cya round!

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213353-new-to-imports/#findComment-3768560
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...e-f-t35129.html

^ this will deff help you!!

Im selling my r33 gtst. However in sydney. If you keen let me know :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...05#entry3655305

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213353-new-to-imports/#findComment-3774269
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...