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Great work with your build. Its refreshing to see someone sharing their assembly process with such detail.

Now when someone has RB26/30 buld questions they can just come to your thread instead of being flamed for not using the search button (which produces more BS than real useful information).

Do you have a purpose in mind for the car? Drag, street, track or all of the above?

Hi, just wondering if you have felt the clutch yet, im looking at having to remove the clutch booster to fit my plenum. Also why did you go for the integra master cylinder instead of the original one?Was it due to the fact the stocker doesn't have provision for a fork?

Hi, just wondering if you have felt the clutch yet, im looking at having to remove the clutch booster to fit my plenum. Also why did you go for the integra master cylinder instead of the original one?Was it due to the fact the stocker doesn't have provision for a fork?

the clutch feels fine..i don't feel a different without the booster

Great work with your build. Its refreshing to see someone sharing their assembly process with such detail.

Now when someone has RB26/30 buld questions they can just come to your thread instead of being flamed for not using the search button (which produces more BS than real useful information).

Do you have a purpose in mind for the car? Drag, street, track or all of the above?

thanks ....

i will keep the updates going ..when i am back in canada..

i am currently traveling around tokyo and HK !

  • 3 weeks later...

more updates !

it's finally looking lik a car now!

with fuel system completed !!!

starting from the back

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fuel lines protector guard !

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fuel line holder

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at the front

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dash completed ! glued the back together !

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heat sheild for turbo and down pipe

hand made wrap!

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HKS to4Z turbo bell mouth machined to fit with my T78 greddy turbo

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since the engine is 3inches taller...we made this angle down so i can use my billion rad hose instead of getting soemthing else

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polished PS tank

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so more work done @ Keep Performance Lab today ~

i must say these guys are so Good with Wires !!!

again keeping it clean is always on the top of the minds. so organizing the wires were very important as it is easier to work on as well as it looks alot nicer.

here are some pictures from today

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back of the kill switch mounted where the rear wiper used to be

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attention to details

Keep Performance lab even got the Bolts on a OLD HKS coilover GOLD PLATED

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my external oil pickup as well as both the external head oil drain and turbo oil drain (had to reuse some old fittings as i don't have time to get new one anodize gold)

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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