Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

After removing / reinstalling the radiator my Greddy guage was flashing a warning and not going about 30degrees, turns out one of the wires broke off the temp sensor, about 2mm away from the actual metal part of it, tried soldering and ended up breaking both wires off.

So where can I buy an aftermarket temp sensor?

Are they all the same?

Do I need to import one?

Regards,

Gareth

hang on

which one is broken

the one that gives the signal for the stock guage

or the one that gives the signal for the ecu

they are different sensors

Really?

I thought the one at the bottom of the aftermarket radiator is the stock gauge / ECU. The PowerFC hand controller reads the temperature just fine right now.

There is also a temperature sensor at the top of the radiator, this has caused a gauge inside the car to flash "warning" constantly as its not getting a reading anymore. The gauge in the car is aftermarket, Greddy gauge.

Regards,

Gareth

if it is the standard sensor you are after go to autobarn, burson ect and ask for a tridon one and they will be able to get one off the shelf for you. seeming its an aftermarket rad it might be a different sized sensor take the old one in with you and if it is different one look in the back of the book and there will be a heap of diagrams so you can match it up.

if it's a greddy temp sensor that you need for a warning meter gauge

you will have to import one,

expect to pay about $89 incl delivery.

Ah right, yes its a greddy water temperature gauge and a greddy/trust radiator so that sounds like what I need.

I was hoping they used some kind of interchangeable part, its just 2 wires going to a temperature sensor in the top of the radiator.

The stock one at the bottom of the radiator is fine, the PowerFC can read the temperature without a problem.

if it is the standard sensor you are after go to autobarn, burson ect and ask for a tridon one and they will be able to get one off the shelf for you. seeming its an aftermarket rad it might be a different sized sensor take the old one in with you and if it is different one look in the back of the book and there will be a heap of diagrams so you can match it up.

Interesting idea, I'm not so sure about going back to Burson's after the last episode with them (gave me the wrong clutch fan about 3 times before they got it right).

But might be a good idea, as long as I can get an exact match.

Found an ebay auction which is selling the gauge with the thermostat, I just want the thermostat though:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Greddy-TRUST-Electr...1QQcmdZViewItem

Alright, think I've found one for a decent price:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ShippingPayment

Bought for around ~$64 US delivered from the USA, brand new. Relatively cheap I think :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...