Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

After removing / reinstalling the radiator my Greddy guage was flashing a warning and not going about 30degrees, turns out one of the wires broke off the temp sensor, about 2mm away from the actual metal part of it, tried soldering and ended up breaking both wires off.

So where can I buy an aftermarket temp sensor?

Are they all the same?

Do I need to import one?

Regards,

Gareth

hang on

which one is broken

the one that gives the signal for the stock guage

or the one that gives the signal for the ecu

they are different sensors

Really?

I thought the one at the bottom of the aftermarket radiator is the stock gauge / ECU. The PowerFC hand controller reads the temperature just fine right now.

There is also a temperature sensor at the top of the radiator, this has caused a gauge inside the car to flash "warning" constantly as its not getting a reading anymore. The gauge in the car is aftermarket, Greddy gauge.

Regards,

Gareth

if it is the standard sensor you are after go to autobarn, burson ect and ask for a tridon one and they will be able to get one off the shelf for you. seeming its an aftermarket rad it might be a different sized sensor take the old one in with you and if it is different one look in the back of the book and there will be a heap of diagrams so you can match it up.

if it's a greddy temp sensor that you need for a warning meter gauge

you will have to import one,

expect to pay about $89 incl delivery.

Ah right, yes its a greddy water temperature gauge and a greddy/trust radiator so that sounds like what I need.

I was hoping they used some kind of interchangeable part, its just 2 wires going to a temperature sensor in the top of the radiator.

The stock one at the bottom of the radiator is fine, the PowerFC can read the temperature without a problem.

if it is the standard sensor you are after go to autobarn, burson ect and ask for a tridon one and they will be able to get one off the shelf for you. seeming its an aftermarket rad it might be a different sized sensor take the old one in with you and if it is different one look in the back of the book and there will be a heap of diagrams so you can match it up.

Interesting idea, I'm not so sure about going back to Burson's after the last episode with them (gave me the wrong clutch fan about 3 times before they got it right).

But might be a good idea, as long as I can get an exact match.

Found an ebay auction which is selling the gauge with the thermostat, I just want the thermostat though:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Greddy-TRUST-Electr...1QQcmdZViewItem

Alright, think I've found one for a decent price:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ShippingPayment

Bought for around ~$64 US delivered from the USA, brand new. Relatively cheap I think :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...