Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About a week after changing to the rb25 turbo, my clutch hasnt been too happy, for a few reasons. I guess the extra power has worn the clutch, and it had run out of adjustment, which resulted in no fre-play and has effectivly rooted the clutch. Ive found out that the gearbox whine is only the thrust? bearing because of no freplay, but im going to have to buy a new clutch.

Im after a clutch that i dont need to go on steroids to use, but wont need upgrading when i go for my proper turbo/ecu upgrade. What do you guys recommend, and how much would i be looking for the clutch, and how much extra would it cost to install?

Im guessing that the stronger the clutch, the more bighty it gets, so i know i wont get the best of both worlds. Im in brisbane, so where can be recommended up here?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21383-clutch-for-250rwkw/
Share on other sites

I am going to be honest with you luke,

I have driven a R33 with a twin plate setup, and a R33 with a strong single. (with the same power output as yourself). Personaly i would take the single in this situation for 3 reasons:

1. Cheaper. (for a really good single your looking at around the $700 mark)

2. Doesnt rattle around like a 1986 VL taxi.

3. It will suit your power application perfectly.

if you would like the best of both worlds: (play & grip) i would recommend getting a cushioned ceramic button clutch:

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ck06.asp

take a look, they deliver anywhere.

Cheers,

Trev.

Go the twin plate.

I bought a 9 button ceramic-ferride Xtreme clutch when I toasted my stocky. It was ok for a while, but started protesting after about 6 months - this is with only just over 200rwkw.

I then got a twin plate, the clutch I would have got in the first place had I the funds at the time. Much better, and I know it will hold even when/if I do the 3L conversion I have planned (if the RB25 dies).

A single plate clutch that can handle 250 rwkw will be grippy as hell - therefore you will shudder every single time you take off in first, even worse when you are taking off on a hill.

I know this because I have one. Next clutch I get will be twin plate.

matlowth (on this forum) is running a full faced organic single plate clutch. also producing over 300RWKW on a RB30/25. and drives it to work.

proof is in the pudding.

listen if youve got the dosh get the twin, if your scrap for cash grab a good single.

Probably best to buy direct from Japan, will save you some dosh. I got mine 2nd-hand and had it rebuilt:D I had a Nismo 5-puck clutch in my car, only last a few months and was a prick to drive. I'm much happier with the drivability of the twin-plate:D

You get what you pay for. There are single-plate clutches that will handle that sort of power, but they won't be as consistent as a twin-plate. I used an OS Giken twin plate in my R34 with 280-295kW at the wheels. It could handle any kind of abuse and still behave almost like a normal clutch in traffic.

Thanks for the reply.

I just noticed I put the wrong turbo on the post.

I am acutally doing a very similar build with a HKS 3037S so I think thats why I put the wrong one down (edited:)).

Congrats on the time - into the 11s with street tyres awesome!

Also good to see someone sticking with stock internals and making such good power. Seems so many people here dont think it can be done safely, when all they need to do is look to the birthplace of the skyline.

My head gasket and cams arrive on friday:)

Once again welcome to the forums, good to see you here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...