Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there guys, looking for some info. I'm a recent red p plater, living in northern parts of Sydney. I'm basically looking for a place to race with mates and just 'go fast' by myself. Like, I pay a certain fee or something and I get to do laps till my hearts content. I'm not that good, and hope that it's open to new people as well. Yeah, just hoping there's a place that's also not too expensive, and preferably close to where I live.

Thanks guys!

I think wakefield has days like that, I remember it as being pretty cheap. Drive there, pay fee, then drive to your hearts content around the race track until you get tired or your car breaks. Only problem is that its 2 hours away.

Cool man that's what I'm looking for! I suppose I don't mind driving too far ey if that's the only option. I've heard of Eastern Creek near Blacktown, do they ever do anything there? That should only be say 1 hrs from my place. Are there any clubs I could join that do this kind of stuff?

Cool man that's what I'm looking for! I suppose I don't mind driving too far ey if that's the only option. I've heard of Eastern Creek near Blacktown, do they ever do anything there? That should only be say 1 hrs from my place. Are there any clubs I could join that do this kind of stuff?

Yes, Skylines Australia :P

Become a member and start attending our Track Days!

Cool man that's what I'm looking for! I suppose I don't mind driving too far ey if that's the only option. I've heard of Eastern Creek near Blacktown, do they ever do anything there? That should only be say 1 hrs from my place. Are there any clubs I could join that do this kind of stuff?

eastern creek is usually really busy, but there are practice days every so often. I think their practice days are $120 or something and an actual track day there is more expensive.

Otherwise, there's always Oran park, they usually have about 5 or so days every month for practice and they are only an hour away.

Heh unfortunately I don't have a skyline. =( I'll be driving a 2006 mazda 3 neo (stock) that I share with my brother. Any other clubs or anything? I suppose the only way that you can get practice days in is to join a club that does it? Or can you just book it for yourself, and maybe a couple of mates? 2 or so.

you dont need to become a member of skylines australia NSW to drive on the track. just get an AASA licence (cheaper at $50, rather than $85 for a cams + $55 for sau membership) from wakiefield park as you're just starting out and probably wont want to head over to eastern creek just yet - lots of things to hit... like walls. i'd definitely start at wakiefield park till i build my confidence up as its wide open spaces and plenty of room to run off the track.

then i'd start looking at getting a cams license if you want to do another track once you've increased your confidence/skill.

My advice....

Join Any CAMS affiliated club (Of course, SAU NSW on tope of the list :cool: )

Get your L2S CAMS licence

This allows you to participate in alot of events.

You can then do practice days at Oran Park and Eastern Creek.

Wakefeild as Joe said is a great track for first timers. They have open days every week.

My advice is keep an eye on car forums, and see if they have any skid pan or track days coming up. guys over at www.autosports.com.au have track days with pro drivers for training.

:D

so Go hard :D

personal opinion would be to do wakefield park a few times. you wont go more then 3-4 times in the year, it'll cost $50 for the AASA.

if you do the whole cams licence you'll be up for around $150 and you'll only really do wakefield park as its alot safer. by all means - go ahead and try eastern creek but its not the most beginner-friendly track there is. so like i said. $50 for AASA and do wakie - get to know your car on a safe course then look into getting your cams licence. at least if you choose to go for the more advanced tracks you'll only be out $50, rather than around $100 (-$50 for AASA) if all you're going to do is wakie.

and sau are nothing but a bunch of c*nts anyway lol.

p.s. welcome to sau.

personal opinion would be to do wakefield park a few times. you wont go more then 3-4 times in the year, it'll cost $50 for the AASA.

if you do the whole cams licence you'll be up for around $150 and you'll only really do wakefield park as its alot safer. by all means - go ahead and try eastern creek but its not the most beginner-friendly track there is. so like i said. $50 for AASA and do wakie - get to know your car on a safe course then look into getting your cams licence. at least if you choose to go for the more advanced tracks you'll only be out $50, rather than around $100 (-$50 for AASA) if all you're going to do is wakie.

and sau are nothing but a bunch of c*nts anyway lol.

p.s. welcome to sau.

You're such a knob Joe. If you don't like us so much why don't you just leave of your own accord instead of provoking us to ban you?

As if this is not the best thread ive ever seen a RED P plater ever post, nice work buddy. All you have to do is get your mates to follow suit and make sure your confidence you get from offroad racing is not seen on the streets.

Wakefield is the safest from what Ive heard as the corners are mostly sand trapped and walls are far far away.. just take it easy every 6th lap or so to cool her down and sell be right.. best to get some aftermarket gear like temp sensors isntalled so it does not become a expensive task.

Also you'll need a Helmet, Upgraded brakes, and to check all fluids before you head out :)

Drag way is another option :D WSID!!

Edited by DECIM8
As if this is not the best thread ive ever seen a RED P plater ever post, nice work buddy. All you have to do is get your mates to follow suit and make sure your confidence you get from offroad racing is not seen on the streets.

Wakefield is the safest from what Ive heard as the corners are mostly sand trapped and walls are far far away.. just take it easy every 6th lap or so to cool her down and sell be right.. best to get some aftermarket gear like temp sensors isntalled so it does not become a expensive task.

Also you'll need a Helmet, Upgraded brakes, and to check all fluids before you head out :D

Drag way is another option :D WSID!!

Sif you need brakes on that track :)

You're such a knob Joe. If you don't like us so much why don't you just leave of your own accord instead of provoking us to ban you?

as if it wasnt clear that i was joking you sensitive homosexual.

Edited by SECURITY
and sau are nothing but a bunch of c*nts anyway lol.

p.s. welcome to sau.

I don't get it, Joe - is that deep-seated sarcasm or are you just having a laugh?

Sometimes I'm not so sure (even considering I've met you a few times), and people who've just joined the forums won't know either. Please take that into consideration when you post...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...